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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2013 6:35:45 GMT -8
I was wondering what types of various finishing techniques everyone was using on their wood carvings. I have tried spray lacquer, but that gave me unsatisfactory results and did not get into the fine detail areas as well as open areas. Currently I am using brush on lacquer and it works very well , dries quickly for recoat (I am putting 4-5 coats on all projects) Only issue is you have to work quickly to smooth everything out before it begins to tack up and leave brush marks. I might add that one of the first things I purchased for finishing was a set of carvers rifler files for cleaning up edges and details.
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Post by Greg on Mar 17, 2013 12:54:20 GMT -8
I started with polyurethane then moved to stain and scuff now I'm going to mix the two on my next cut.
You should try some nice oak wood instead of cedar, I cut a lot of Cedar but ran out so I bought oak at home depot and it holds detail better.
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Post by gullyfoyle on Apr 6, 2013 23:52:37 GMT -8
WD40 or Linseed oil. Rag not brush.
Light stain works fine on Pine.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2014 11:18:11 GMT -8
Wondering what everyone is using now that they have more experience with end results. I normally use mineral spirits/cloth rag to remove dust and then spray polyurethane. I have done a couple pieces with stain then spray, but I really like the coloration that I get immediately after putting on the mineral oil and wondered what the result would be if I sprayed immediately after using mineral spirits - I'm thinking that it wouldn't be good. But would spraying over linseed oil work ok?
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Post by Greg on Feb 12, 2014 17:52:29 GMT -8
I now use a light colored stain rubbed in and let it dry for around 24hrs so it wont clog the sand paper then I scuff all the high spots in the carving making the high spots lighter and the low spots dark. After that I use an ultra clear polyurethane and put on at least two coats normally 3 though. This process works well on photos especially because they are shallow carves and they need the contrast. Imagine that colts plaque of yours being stained early american then when dry you take all the raised area back to the color of the wood. s146.photobucket.com/user/gregs_photo/profile/ |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2014 11:51:29 GMT -8
Interesting idea Greg, I have just carved a number of different "man cave" signs with the horseshoe on them for my future niece to give as a gift (she gets to choose which one she wants) so I'll try it out on one as I'm finishing them. The one in my picture is a favorite of mine, it came out better than most of what I do ..... but it does need to be finished so I'll practice this on another piece. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2014 5:20:13 GMT -8
For finishing I am using clear lacquer thinned by 25% for spraying ( semi gloss and satin ) I like the fact that it dries so quickly (30 or 40 minutes) so I can get several coats on in one day. I use painters tack rags to clean up final dust amounts before spraying. In between coats I take superfine steel wool to all surfaces, use a magnet to pluck the steel fibers off the project then vacuum and tack rag last. When you wipe down with mineral spirits make sure you let it dry out real well or you will have fish eyes in the poly finish because of the vapors ( VOC's )trying to come out. Old retired industrial painter here.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2014 8:33:12 GMT -8
Like your new picture! You obviously know what you're doing with painting, so why not use a polyurethane spray can like a Miniwax instead of all the extra mixing you're doing? Miniwax also dries in an hour for a second coat. My first attempt at the cityscape came out reasonable well, though I think I'm going to refine it some more (like getting rid of the moon) before doing a finished product. This version hasn't been sanded or coated yet. Attachments:
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Post by Greg on Feb 14, 2014 10:49:41 GMT -8
What size was that original picture? I have a 1/50th bit I use for fine detail and I cut it on a slow setting takes longer but makes a difference. The size of the picture is like the difference between over the air TV and the new stuff we watch now High definition. s146.photobucket.com/user/gregs_photo/profile/ |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2014 12:46:05 GMT -8
Greg I think the original skyline photo I uploaded on here was on the order of 1269 x 469 px
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2014 16:13:57 GMT -8
On the subject of finishes. I'm currently cutting a 41" board that will go as the back rest on a bench at the end of our dock (think Park Bench for example). I love the look of the results as it's carving, but trying to figure out how best to finish it since it will sit outside (summer only) with no shade anywhere. What would happen if you just used shellac (maybe stain also) over bare wood - would it last? I'm thinking probably not. Another thought would be to paint the whole thing except for the fish, which would let them "pop" a little more - but again I don't know about the bare wood out in the sun. Any thoughts?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2014 19:58:42 GMT -8
Rick, the UV from the sun destroys or breaks down every type of finish so it is your choice, Marine Spar Varnish or polyurethane probably the best choices. As for paint, about 3 years out in direct sunlight before it gets ugly and that's probably the limit on the other 2 as well.
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Post by newbie on Mar 20, 2014 9:27:06 GMT -8
Behur makes a finish for garage doors. I used it on a cedar door, minimum of three coats you lose one coat per year in sun light. I don't know how much extra you would lose to wear from people rubbing against it.
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Post by Greg on Mar 20, 2014 20:34:27 GMT -8
What I use down here in the south for our hot sun is an oil treatment made for decks, it's similar to Thompsons water sealer but you have to use the oil version they have.
This only last 3-5 years also but you just add more oil to it unless you wait too long then you have to clean it before the oil treatment again.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2014 16:21:25 GMT -8
Ok, I've decided that paint is probably the way to go - it's what the bench has had (redone several times) over the past 30 years. So I'm thinking a good primer coat, then a white coat. Then I'll highlight the carving with a blue background that will coordinate with the seat boards on the bench. Since you guys know more about UV and finishes than I, does anyone have any idea if it's better to use a gloss, semi-gloss, or flat paint? Remember that this bench will only be outside for May through August, and stored indoors for the winter - I should be able to double how long it lasts if I do it right.
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