Vic
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Post by Vic on May 30, 2014 10:53:45 GMT -8
Hi good day. I need to get a software that can convert a normal picture to grayscale, can someone please advise. Thanks. G'day, Like the others, I would highly recommend The GIMP, with the caveat of a steep learning curve. One simple, no cost alternative, is Irfanview. It will convert to greyscale with the push of a button, and will also apply blur, in a simple adjustable process ranging fronm 2 to 10 pixels wide and in varying strengths. I have used it to prepare a couple of pictures for carving, prior to running through i-picture and it works fine. (I normally use Paintshop Pro, which also has a steep learning curve and is unfortunately, not free.) The process is quite straightforward, - download the latest version of Irfanview, then download the plug-ins. Start Irfanview and open the picture you wish to work on. Click on ‘Image’ on the top toolbar and select ‘Convert to Grayscale from the drop-down box. (It’s about halfway down.) That’s it. You’re done. Save and exit. If, however, you wish to apply blur to smooth the edges of the image, leave the 'save and exit' for a moment and click on ‘Image/Effects (4th from the bottom,)/Sandbox/Simple Blur’ Click on the middle button at the top of the box that has appeared and the adjustment sliders will be visible. Adjust the range and intensity of the blur effect and click on ‘Apply’ on the bottom row of buttons. Don’t like the effect? Click on ‘Undo’ and try some different settings. When you’re happy with it all, save and exit. Then run it through I-Picture. For all of the simplicity of manipulating the picture, there is still a learning curve. Applying effects and then carving to see the results is what that is all about. Hopefully, this software might provide a faster, low tech path into the world of CNC carving while newer owners learn the finer pints of The Gimp.  Screenshot of Irfanview Blur sliders and maple leaf.  Maple leaf with blur applied  Screenshot of I-View rendering Regards Vic 1318 and using Paintshop Pro and Cut 2D |
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Post by bixwaltg on May 30, 2014 12:34:27 GMT -8
Vic,
Thanks a million for the response and recommendation.
Walter
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Post by Greg on May 31, 2014 9:43:48 GMT -8
Working with cnc images you'll want to be able to select a line or out line using a vector line, the easy way to see how to do this would be to draw a circle then select it.
Next you apply a gradient to it on the inside plus you want the gradient to be round too so it will follow the line instead of just making it half and half.
A blur cannot give you the same effect size that a gradient can give.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2014 6:11:42 GMT -8
Back to the subject of finishing.....in watching the show Rehab Addict, she was talking about staining floors and mentioned that she would dampen the wood in order to open up the grain so that it would accept stain better. Is anyone currently doing, or recommend, this method for finishing the pieces we do?
Also, what does anyone use to sand the small areas that we end up with in many of the carvings - the Dremel works great for open areas, but not so well on small flat areas.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2014 6:31:58 GMT -8
Rick, I don't know about using water on the wood , minwax does make a wood conditioner for use prior to staining.I have pretty much stayed away from staining because of the way that stain takes differently on areas of the carve, primarily any place where there is now exposed end grain it gobbles up more color than other areas and ends up darker. For the small detail sanding I purchased 2 sets of carvers rifler files from Amazon,they come in flat, rounded, vee shaped, oval shape and I believe a square one. I use the flat, rounded and vee shape the most. The rounded one for example is about 1/8" in diameter.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2014 6:35:22 GMT -8
Here is a link to some of the files : link |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 6, 2014 11:35:06 GMT -8
Thanks Bob, I actually have a set of those files in some boxes of stuff I got through an estate, just forgot to look there. I personally like the look of stain, per the avatar picture of the heart and rose it allows you to get two different colors into one piece. I used the stain and sand method - the rose in the middle is plain wood. Another one is the Purdue sign I just finished for a neighbor - it really hurts an old IU alumni to cut a Purdue piece. I do agree with your assessment of the stain getting darker on curves of cut pieces, for example on letters. In the PU picture I also sanded the high part of each letter to try and make the letter stick out more - need to get more aggressive with my sanding on the next one. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2014 4:41:31 GMT -8
"it really hurts an old IU alumni to cut a Purdue piece "
I understand that feeling, maybe when you give it to him you could be all teary eyed when you tell him how much it hurt.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2014 9:06:11 GMT -8
Anyone with finishing expertise, help me with finishing this carving so that I can make the highlights stand out. This is a picture of my sister-in-law who passed away last year. My brother wants me to carve one for each of his kids so he can give them as a Christmas Present. I've included the original greyscale picture, ipicture design, and final carving picture. I'm thinking that I may take a light stain and go over the carved highlights in the face, then sand out the rest of the face to get the effect of stain/sand discussed elsewhere. Then maybe use a darker stain on just the hair (she had black hair). Then polyurethane the entire oak piece in clear gloss. The carving is too light to stand on its own, I did it in 1/8" depth. I wonder if carving to .23" depth would make much of a difference or if it would just increase the edge cut off around the hair. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2014 10:22:31 GMT -8
I think your depth is just fine and don't see any reason to increase it. The stain and scuff method sounds like the way to go on the piece.
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Post by Greg on Oct 6, 2014 0:44:45 GMT -8
s146.photobucket.com/user/gregs_photo/profile/This is probably a little late but the stain and scuff method works great on pictures and faces, on oak I use 80 grit paper after letting the stain dry 24 hrs also don't go too dark with the stain. When you sand the stain the high spots will stand out and make it look like a photo in wood.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2015 16:08:03 GMT -8
Two posts above I discussed a problem I had with finishing up a project for my brother to give as Christmas gift. After trying several ways of finishing, I ended up going with a poplar wood to give me a whiter background with very little in the way of grain in the wood. I was having a problem with the grain ending up on the face and affecting the finished product with oak. So I switched to poplar and felt ok with the final product, but my brother loved it and bought three to give his kids. I've shown the two different models below, the first in Oak and the final product in poplar. Note that I used dark walnut stain for her hair, and then the face and neck were stained with a lighter early american stain. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2015 12:53:29 GMT -8
Here's another suggestion in the line of finishing tips, I've started to bevel a lot of my carvings to get away from the square rectangular look, it even looks great with pictures that have the frames around them. I've shown an example below of one that I just finished, I think the bevel does a great job of adding another dimension to the finished look which would have been pretty plain otherwise. And no, I have no idea why this gal wanted a hedgehog welcome sign, my daughter sold it to her.  Attachments:
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Post by max22258 on Oct 26, 2015 10:22:02 GMT -8
Did you try a small finishing air gun for detailing.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2015 17:43:13 GMT -8
Don't have one max, and I have no experience in using one. I've tried using painters brushes, but just don't have the hand control or something to do a great job on those.
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Screenshot of Irfanview Blur sliders and maple leaf.
Maple leaf with blur applied
Screenshot of I-View rendering
