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Post by newbie on Mar 22, 2014 18:33:45 GMT -8
Not sure which way to go, but stay away from oil based it seals the wood and any moisture in the wood will work it's way to the surface with temperature changes and blister the paint. It needs to breath.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2014 4:20:00 GMT -8
I would go with gloss or semi gloss if you are using paint. The surface of those 2 are more water repellant than flat which if you look at under magnification actually looks sort of like a sponge. The gloss and semi will repel water better.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2014 12:57:33 GMT -8
I've painted it in a semi-gloss white, with a blue highlighter background. Now the question is, do I polyurethane a coat of sealant over it or not. My son used to work for Sherwin Williams and his wife is a art school grad - they both say yes. I got the impression from what was said here that most people would say "no"...........any comments? I previously did a house sign for this same lake place, all painted with a coat of sealant over it. After one summer, it still looks fantastic but that was in a more shaded spot.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2014 17:20:43 GMT -8
Water based polyurethane would work on latex paint, regular poly on oil/solvent based paint or latex. Not a big fan of water based poly however as my experience has been that it turns milky when exposed to moisture. You should never put water based over oil/solvent based finishes, it will eventually release.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2014 14:21:21 GMT -8
I went with just the paint and will see how that lasts, again since it will only be outdoors during the summer I may get a couple more years out of one paint job. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2014 17:23:31 GMT -8
Bob had made a mention in another post of using steel wool to finish between layers of poly, I had always used a 220 grit sandpaper for the same thing. Today I was cleaning out a cabinet and came across some steel wool, and had a piece also just finishing on the machine. So I used the steel wool to clean up the little fuzzies on the wood to prepare for finishing, the stuff did an incredible job of giving me a really smooth surface - much better luck than I've had with sandpaper and it gets into grooves much easier too. I think I've found a new way of cleaning up immediately after carving if future projects clean up this easily (and well).
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Post by Greg on Apr 13, 2014 22:57:48 GMT -8
When I did the baby pic the other day I went ahead and placed a cheap cutting board in the machine while I had it setup and it turned out great, I gave it to the babies mama and she loved it, I cut it on the back of the board and I think it cost a couple of bucks at the dollar store.
Might save you all some money on shipping out that corian.
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Post by Deleted on May 11, 2014 9:51:16 GMT -8
If you are using steel wool make sure you buy american made as the imported stuff has oils in it. Whether you use it for initial smoothing or on you finish work, if you are using a magnet to pull the steel fibers of the project, wrap a piece of paper towel around your magnet, then when full just pull it off and discard.....easier than trying to pluck the fibers directly off the magnet plus with the paper towel around it you can see if you are still picking up and fibers each time you change it.
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2014 17:22:31 GMT -8
Great suggestion Bob, I'll have to check the steel wool for the mfg next time.
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Post by bixwaltg on May 23, 2014 3:47:29 GMT -8
Hi good day. I need to get a software that can convert a normal picture to grayscale, can someone please advise. Thanks.
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Post by Greg on May 23, 2014 8:31:03 GMT -8
search for Gimp.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2014 16:34:35 GMT -8
Hi good day. I need to get a software that can convert a normal picture to grayscale, can someone please advise. Thanks. In the end you will need to do more than simply covert images to graycale, the things you will need to do can all be done with GIMP but there is learning curve as with any software used to make the grayscale images suitable for carving. |
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2014 6:14:23 GMT -8
I agree with bob that simply converting to grayscale isn't going to always give you results that you're happy with. Photoshop Elements has a single button that you push to make a grayscale image out of any photo. However, since ipicture is reading whites/blacks in determining cutting height, you are going to want to play around with the picture to insure you get a cut result that you are happy with. An example is a girl in a black tank top. Changing the picture to grayscale gives you a dark tank top on white shoulders - which will cut deep for the top and shallow for the shoulders - a non-lifelike situation. Simply inverting the picture would give you better (not perfect) results on the tank top/body but then the face may not come out well. I have GIMP as well, but like Bob mentioned there is a learning curve to anything you use and I'm more familiar with Photoshop. I love my 1013, but the computer work is a little taxing on a hobbiest like myself who doesn't enjoy detail work.
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2014 8:20:55 GMT -8
Hi good day. I need to get a software that can convert a normal picture to grayscale, can someone please advise. Thanks. Here is an image simply converted to grayscale and run thru I-Picture Preview. As you can see it is not a good result:  Original image  And I-Picture Preview. |
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2014 8:24:58 GMT -8
Next here is the same image modified using GIMP, I added some contrasting lines for leaf veins on the right side, applied some blur.  Modified image.  And I-Picture view |
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