I'm in the final throes of deciding whether to purchase a 1013 or not. My understanding is that you can do designs in standard software - like Microsoft Publisher - save it as a .jpeg, then import and carve with this machine. Does that make sense? I'm a hobby type user, not a professional so I want to make sure that the $2k is well spent.
I love my machine, I learn new things to do with it all the time plus you can use other purchased software to do more stuff than just the pictures although the picture thing is a big one and almost all of my carvings have been sold out. I'm not even trying to sell them they just keep asking me to make this or that or they want one I did.
I don't regret my machine at all the only thing I regret is not getting the 1015 I know it's more but it can do more, still the 1013 will keep you busy and there are ways to do the stuff the 15 will do just slower thats all. Greg
I have used Microsoft Paint and done alot of things. you can import pics and clip art and use all fonts for the lettering you want to do. then you just save as jpeg and then use ipicture and downlaod it and carve it
Last Edit: Feb 3, 2013 15:22:00 GMT -8 by levi4032
I copied this from another site. It is about the I-Picture settings.
Here is a common question that we get from new customers: This explains all the settings in iPicture.
?From the Menu bar select "File" and "Open Image File" to open an image (JPG, PNG, TIFF, GIFF, BMP) file that you would like to machine.
?From the Menu bar select "File" and "Open G-Code File" to convert a .dat file (created in a CAD program such as ArtCAM Express or V-Carve Pro) into a .GEE file for machining. Note that when you import a file none of the settings in iPicture will apply
?Scale Unit: You may choose between scaling your project in inch or metric units
?Size of project: Once downloaded the project size will appear in the first two columns. The first column is the X axis (left to right on your machine) and the second column will show the Y axis (front to back on your machine). You can change the size of your project to your liking. Note that iPicture will keep the project in scale so if the X axis is changed the Y axis will change proportionately and vice versa. The third column determines the maximum depth of machining and is completely independent of the first two columns.
?Scan Step: This determines the amount of material that will be removed with each pass. The default setting is .2 mm (.007874") and is typically a good setting for most projects machined with the 1/32" conical V-bit which is included with the iCarver. If you reduce this setting then machining time will increase but the project will increase in detail and definition. If you increase this setting then machining time will be shorter but there is a potential for some more noticeable machining lines and detail may not be as great. When using the 1/8" end mill (also included with the iCarver this setting should be increased as you will, in most cases,be looking for more efficient machining times and detail will not be as much of a factor.
?Tool Type: There are six tools listed here but the iCarver only comes with two: GVee_R 1/32" (1/32" conical V-bit) and End Mill_D 1/8" (1/8" end mill). iPicture can only machine using the tools in this drop down list.
?Feed Depth Per Cycle: This allows you to control the depth per pass of your machining operation. Typically the iCarver should be set to pass depths not to exceed .25" with the conical v-bit and .125" with the end mill. If, for example you are machining a project with a v-bit to a depth of .5" and the Depth Per Pass is set at .25" then the project will take two passes to complete the entire machining operation
?XY Origin Position: You may select any origin position to machine your project. the only rule of thumb here is that wherever you choose as an origin position i iPicture must be the same as where you set the origin position on the iCarver
?Preview: The preview will allow you to see the project toolpath on a preview screen before outputting the file to your iCarver
?Convert: This will convert the file to a .GEE file which is the format which is recognized by your iCarver
Post by gullyfoyle on Feb 18, 2013 11:27:08 GMT -8
Preview sucks though. It needs more contrast.Or maybe some way to adjust the angle and brightness of light, as with 3d software. Have you tried cutting one of those low depth ones? It may look better as a lithophane than it will on wood. Tech support said to level the wood by using either an all white or all black .gee code and the end mill. I think that low depth setting would work really well.
Yes low depth works well, I cut them around .080 and stain then when dry sand it and the high spots lighten up to a point it looks just like your picture! Also harder wood works well for this because it wont soak the stain in so far.
Nice to have the room. If I had more space I would buy more toys. Hell with that, I would build a six or seven foot 5 axis router cage and make life size wooden sculpture. Then post the plans online so greater and wiser minds can better the initial design. Ah to dream.
Try setting your z depth setting to .800 then do a preview now go back and change it to .100 and do a preview. Yo get a blank screen on shallow cuts.
You can zoom in and see what it looks like. I just tested with .08. All blank until I zoomed in. The problem is you lose the larger context of the picture when you zoom in. But I guess if you lay it at a slight angle it is satisfactory.
Your other post said you cut at .080. When tossed into I-Picture it drops the end 0. .08 is smaller than .8. Did you accidentally drop the first 0? The zoom resolution worked at .08, so it will work at the higher.8. I'm now cutting the .08 file at slow to see how it looks.
I see. I just use the zoom and flip the plane around a bit to get an idea of the peaks and valleys. .080 makes a very nice picture. Thanks for that. I imagine Lithophanes look awesome at that depth. Maybe even less deep, after all the back lighting will pick out the details. Corian must be stunning with the right pciture.