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If you are having a problem with resistance at each table joint, it is quite possible that the gear rack that runs down the center of the table underside could be cracked at each table joint. It seems logical if your table is indeed uneven then that could stress the gear rack enough crack it at the joints.

NOTE: If I were removing the table I would not want have the table joints loose for the same reason.

I'm having an issue with my 13. Last night while starting a cut on the X axis I received a limit switch error on the return cut but the machine was a good inch or two from the actual switch? Any thoughts on what this can be? It's not the code because if I just put the machine in manual I can move it all the way to the right and when I bring it back to the left it will give me the red light at on point but it will continue to move.

That was the first thing I checked, I cleaned the machine and checked all the wiring to make sure everything was plugged in. I'm lost on this one, it gets 2" from the limit switch and stops. If I manually move it back and forth it gets to that same spot and the light goes red but once I'm past that specific spot it goes green until I actually activate the limit sw.

Dennis, the only thing I can think of, is that there is some kind of resistance happening as the spindle moves along the rails. The way I have checked this on my machine is somewhat complicated but it did identify where is was occuring and is as follows:

Looking at the X axis set up there is the coupler that connects the stepper motor to the X axis screw shaft, on the other end is a bearing and the bearing mount, and on the back of the motor where it is connected to the screw shaft there is plastic coupler that the screw goes thru ( though not identified in any schematic, I believe this part to be a coupler AND an anti backlash assembly )

You can remove the X axis screw shaft and check if there is binding occurring on the guide rails, ONLY if you are comfortable in doing so and follow this procedure:

(1) Clean any oil or lube from the shaft where it comes out of the coupler on the stepper motor then make a mark on the shaft with a sharpie where it comes out of the
coupler
so that it can be put back in the same position.

(2) Loosen the coupler only on the end where the X axis screw is held.

(3) Go to the other end of the X axis screw and remove the 4 bolts that hold the bearing housing.

(4) Using an allen wrench turn the X axis screw in order to back it out of the stepper motor coupler and then the plastic coupler which is on the back of the spindle
motor
This should remove the screw from the machine... You need to be careful with the screw and bearing assembly, if you drop it, it could get bent and that is a 200-300
dollar part.

Now that the screw is out you should be able to slide the spindle motor back and forth to check where there is resistance. If it is occurring where your machine is red lighting, then you will need to adjust the rails the spindle rides on to eliminate any binding along the total travel path. It is possible that the rail has moved slightly on the end where you are encountering the problem.

Re-assembly:

(1) Hold the lead screw assembly and start to feed it into the coupler using an allen wrench to turn it so that it begins to go into the coupler on the back of the spindle
motor..... the tricky part here is that the screw will only want to go in part way and you will get resistance DO Not force it. As you are turning the screw reach
around to the left side of the plastic coupler and push in on the side as it is spring loaded and then the screw should go all the way thru it.

(2) Once you are thru the coupler continue to turn the screw with the allen wrench to get it close to the stepper motor coupler, then just keep adjusting until the bearing
assembly is lined up to replace the 4 bolts and lastly tighten the stepper motor coupler.

This will likely fix the problem, as I had a similar problem before, mine was binding and stopping on the other side about 2/3 of the way. I considered the possibility that
the plastic linear bearings that ride the X axis rails were worn out, but that would cause binding all along the X axis, not just in one area. When I was sliding the spindle motor freely along the rails I encountered very stiff resistance where my error and stopping of the machine was happening.

Just remember the tricky part about the plastic coupler on the back of the spindle motor, the spring loaded side is part of the anti backlash and it you force it you could break the mechanism.

Nick, when I call that number you posted it says "call can not be completed".

Hi, got another problem cropped up. Noticed a electrical burning smell whilst carving the other day, thought it might be dust getting into electrical so blew around joints with airbrush with hope to clear anything.
Then whilst carving today project got half way through & lost power, took plastic cover off to investigate & found the power supply connectors rubber covers to the on/off power switch were blacken & charred.
So trying to figure out whether I need a new switch (hoping someone could enlighten me as to where I might get one) or a new power cord (which I can get at Lowes from what I seen) But I'm not planning on switching the machine back on till I repair it as I don't want to risk a fire.

Cheers