Recently I've had troubles with my spindle motor, which was slowing down and sometimes coming to a complete stop midway through cuts. After checking for loose connections and visiting the inner workings of much of the electronics to make sure the connections were good there, Oliver warranted the spindle motor and I just opened up that part of the machine for the first time (I've been running the 1013 for exactly a year now, few problems). It's nice having the new motor, it also solved my problem with being unable to use the red pushpin shaft lock when changing pins. I replaced it, and it's working through it's first project without a hickup so far.
For those of you who have yet to visit this part of your machine, I thought I'd post a few pictures of what you have in there. Also I'm posting a couple of shots of where the shaft goes through it's bearing, and what the old shaft looked like when it came out. It had some old lube on it, I've cleaned and re-lubed this during the reassembly but I thought maybe some of you with more troubleshooting experience can tell me if what you see on the shaft could have caused the problems I experienced - quick slowdown of bit turning, and sometimes even a couple stoppage and the symptoms got progressively worse.
It looks to me that for sure the collar with the lock pin hole has slipped downward on the shaft. I cannot see anything else, but on mine since it was not requested to return it , I took the 4 screws that hold the motor together out and slipped the armature/shaft out. That is when I was able to find what went wrong, I did note that before I took it apart it took a fair amount of effort to turn the shaft by hand as compared to the new one.
On the collar slipping down, you're dead right. It happened a month or so after I got the machine, and dropped down enough to that only about 1/2 the hole was visible when looking down the red pin shaft hole. My old one seems to turn ok, but with a noticible amount of vibration inside the unit as it turns. I wish I had some way to test this off the machine, I wonder if the collar slipping down was binding on the bearing in the motor holder - that could cause similar problems with some contaminents....I may have a good motor with a bad collar. Obviously this is a "special" motor made for Oliver since the part number does not come up on the Teco Electro Devices website. Looks like other Teco motors are available through American Distributors for under $60, but I didn't see an exact match for this one.
I think once your out of warranty, adding cleaning out this area makes sense. The bearing itself around where the shaft goes through looked pretty good, all the wear seemed to be on the shaft itself. I'm thinking sawdust came up, you can see a little accumulation of something on the face of the motor. I lubed everything, but once it gets warm I'm going to break it down again for a more thorough cleaning and re-lube.
I went ahead and took the motor apart to see if there was anything obvious inside, like the broken magnet that Bob had. Mine looked perfect. I'm still thinking that it must have been contamination around the shaft which is what gave it that worn/burnt appearance, you could feel a slight bumping on the shaft where it had worn. I'm going to make it a habit of taking the motor out, cleaning this area, and re-lubing the bearing at least twice a year.
I'm gonna do mine as soon as I get caught up with things, Bob mine was doing something like that and it turned out to be sludge in the form of wood and grease build up, it was the motor slipping on mine once I cleaned the tracks and gear on the Y things worked well again.
Got my system apart today and what I thought was a bushing is actually a ball bearing that needs no maintenance except a wipe down from what I can tell, on a side note I took the cover off the back electronics since my warranty should be expired now and all of that looks pretty clean considering how much cutting I have done. Also if you really wanted to get away from the USB and go to computer control all you have to do is buy some controllers and unplug the stepper motors from the board and connect them to the new controllers.
I don't think you want oil or grease on a ball bearing shaft because it might introduce slipping on the shaft.
I believe that the ball bearing in this area is designed to work as an "overhung load adapter", essentially that takes the side loading off the shaft (on deeper cuts) by extending the loading (side pressure) further down the shaft and away from where the shaft leaves the motor. We did that with most machines in my old hydraulics field to extend the life of the motor. Slipping is not an issue since the shaft just really spins inside this ball bearing anyway.
My electronics area was also pretty clean the first time I looked into it, just a very lite dusting. But I think that I use my machine a lot less than you.
Hi guys. Your descriptions of this problem are very familiar. While I am not glad that others have had similar durability issues, I am glad folks are talking about it, & perhaps we'll develop some fixes. I got my 1013 in Dec2012 & experienced spindle noise & vibration 1 week out of warranty in Dec2013. My symptoms were exactly as described - the taper adaptor which is pressed onto the motor shaft had slipped down,noisily grinding its way down into a pocket (as I recall). The OD of the taper adaptor was a little undersize as well from wearing into the overhng support bearing. The spindle lock was unusable as a result. I asked for warranty consideration but got "sorry" & a approx $300 estimate for a replacement spindle. I also tried to look on-line for motors but the issue is getting a spindle adaptor to press on.
Since I didn't have to worry about the warranty an longer I put the motor in a vise - support the end of end of the spindle at the top of the motor directly on the shaft, then pressed the adaptor back on to the depth is should be with the other jaw of the vise. First try - bad vibration. I inidicate the spindle & found it had runout - had not pressed it square enough. Light tapping was to true it up. Machine is running ok now. I estimate I had 150 hours runtime at the time of the problem.
Next time...locktight? Some other means of guaranteeing it remains secure?
Interesting that the motor costs is estimated around $300, that is a pretty high price for the motor I think. I also think that my problem dealt with the collar slipping down, and possibly the change in position was causing the shaft to bind - giving me intermittent slowing/stopping of the shaft rotation during cuts. Mine has worked perfectly since I installed the new motor. In the spring of 2012 Oliver said they were looking into the problem of how the collar is slipping down the shaft - I've never seen anything more on that.
Well I believed bushing is actually a ball keeping that, needs no servicing except a wipe down from what I can tell on a part observe, i took the protect off the returning electronics since my warranty should be expired now and all of that looks fairly fresh considering how much reducing I have done.