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Post by Back Road Rustics on Aug 19, 2015 5:38:19 GMT -8
Yes, I do have to say Nick is a really nice guy to talk to and very helpful. Sorry to read about your problems Bob but glad you have a temp fix with a permanent one on the way.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2015 11:43:21 GMT -8
I have received my new motor today and it does indeed have a set screw on the spindle shaft to hold it in place. I edited my previous post to remove the portion relating to getting a fix for the problem of the spindle sliding down on the motor shaft since they have addressed and fixed that issue.
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Post by mroliver on Aug 31, 2015 9:09:26 GMT -8
I have received my new motor today and it does indeed have a set screw on the spindle shaft to hold it in place. I edited my previous post to remove the portion relating to getting a fix for the problem of the spindle sliding down on the motor shaft since they have addressed and fixed that issue. good to know you have received it is it working fine for you? |
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Post by max22258 on Oct 25, 2015 20:02:06 GMT -8
I bought mine on the 16 Oct 2015, the shaft vibrate and when it cuts it creates a lot of tear in the wood which give a very bad results at the end. Enough that I have to use a dremel to finish it off afterward. I did not know the motor was so small, it will not last for a long time I assume. Maybe I should return this one and look for a different make. The motor and bearing seems insufficient for the job, underdesigned!!!
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Post by max22258 on Oct 25, 2015 20:08:06 GMT -8
I am wondering if a spindle motor fails if it would be possible to fool the software into thinking one was still attached, then rigging up one of the ones they have on the market like a dewalt, just running separate power to it. One such as this: Seems it would be a better alternative to spending $ 300 for the replacement part I have a porter cable that is quite small with a 1/4 inch shaft attachment. I know this would last, the software just enable the power to reach the small motor. The porter cable small router motor is higher/. Well I am returning mine, 2 weeks and after 4 carving there is a strong vibration on the X axis. Also the shaft have some play in it. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2015 17:41:06 GMT -8
I've had my machine for two years now, and do about 10 carvings per month on average. Although I did have to replace my spindle motor, it was an older design that did not have a set screw on the shaft collet - which slipped down and caused friction on the bearing both through downward and sideways loading. I replaced the motor last winter and have had zero problems since.....I did just over 40 carvings this month on it. I believe the size of the motor is sufficient, but it sounds like you might have a warranty problem that you should discuss with Nick at Oliver. The vibration seems like it might be a collet that wasn't put on squarely or a motor that isn't totally screwed tight.
I'm wondering if you are having small lines running along the x axis that you are cleaning up with your dremel. My own experience with these came early on with the machine, either I'd forgotten to use the right bit with the settings I put into ipicture or something. I totally eliminated these by decreasing the scan step in ipicture from .2 mm down to .15. This slows the overall cut down slightly, but the lines are gone completely so my clean up afterward is minimal.
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Post by ajtkrmc on Dec 16, 2015 13:45:36 GMT -8
I am wondering if a spindle motor fails if it would be possible to fool the software into thinking one was still attached, then rigging up one of the ones they have on the market like a dewalt, just running separate power to it. One such as this: View AttachmentSeems it would be a better alternative to spending $ 300 for the replacement part Yes - a very good alternative.  My spindle developed so much play that I could not bear it any longer (worn motor bearings & worn spindle adapter diameter that runs inside the outboard bearing. I bought a reconditioned Bosch 1 hp trim router on e-bay and made an adapter out of a 3" exhaust tubing, welded to a 1/8" steel base plate. Threw old spindle & knee bracket into a drawer. Taped up unused electrical leads. Stuffed new router cable into the cat-track. I found that I have to open up the gee file in notepad and delete the 2nd line with the spindle "on" command or else it will not run the program, but aside from that there are no problems. I plan to rig a table switch so that when the y-axis runs back to home position at the end of the program the router will shut itself off (will have two parallel switches so I can actually start the program on one switch, then once the y axis has moved off the table switch I will set it "on" and then close the 2nd parallel switch, to enable my auto-shutoff,).. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2015 16:27:08 GMT -8
Sounds like a good solution. Are there any issues with heat build up in the motor from being wrapped up in the metal ?
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Post by ajtkrmc on Dec 17, 2015 3:12:43 GMT -8
Bob, I've only run it 1-1/2 hrs so far but it does not seem excessively warm. The steel clamp sleeve should conduct the heat just as well as the router casing I think. Also the lower end of the housing at the shaft end bearing still projects below the sleeve. I'll keep folks posted how things work in the long term. I hope to have time to do a few projects over the Christmas holidays.
...Andrew.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2016 14:34:48 GMT -8
Well here is to another dead spindle motor, just bought this under a year ago, it should be within the 1 year warranty on electrical parts IF they will honor it on replacement parts. I have not got as much "life" from this motor as the previous one, simply because I have not carved as many things.
Carving a plaque with a Z depth of 3mm and scan step of .15mm with a brand spanking new bit and the motor bogs down and even stops spinning and drags the nice new bit across the workpiece. Needless to say the brand new bit will be shot as well.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2016 16:32:32 GMT -8
That sounds like what happened when mine went out, took the motor out and found what I felt were scorch marks on the shaft. Remembering that you'd found a broken magnet in your first bad one, I took mine apart and ruined it. Now I wish I'd tried to run it with the motor out of the bracket to see if it really worked or was binding somehow. My problem was that they didn't have set screws on the collet back then, and the collet had slipped down. Look at the shaft closely to see wear, and maybe try running the motor off the bracket. Not sure how'd you do this, but those motors ain't cheap.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2016 18:29:40 GMT -8
I took the bottom bearing out of the motor holder and ran the motor and it just sounds like it is laboring and not getting up to speed. I may be trying out the trim router method if I can find out how that has worked out over time. The old motor runs just fine, but the collar keeps slipping down. I did go back out to the shop this eve and squirted some super glue in the holes on the side of the collar on the old motor to see if that will hold for awhile. In the end I am not going to outlay for another spindle motor even if they have one. Either a separate brushless spindle motor with external power source (can be bought for less) or the trim router method which would be around $ 150.
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Post by ajtkrmc on Aug 15, 2016 17:58:32 GMT -8
I took the bottom bearing out of the motor holder and ran the motor and it just sounds like it is laboring and not getting up to speed. I may be trying out the trim router method if I can find out how that has worked out over time. The old motor runs just fine, but the collar keeps slipping down. I did go back out to the shop this eve and squirted some super glue in the holes on the side of the collar on the old motor to see if that will hold for awhile. In the end I am not going to outlay for another spindle motor even if they have one. Either a separate brushless spindle motor with external power source (can be bought for less) or the trim router method which would be around $ 150.
Good evening Bob. I have not given an update recently on how my trim router conversion has fared (Bosch 20EVSK trim router, factory rebuilt ones on ebay for around $85). I estimate I got about 90 hours on mine before having it stop mid-cycle. It would restart if I gave it a spin by hand. I found the brushes were almost worn out and replaced those. Great, it worked again, but then I could hear a bearing whine. Unfortunately I continued to run it another 8 or so hours - the lower bearing seized and spun and messed up the plastic that potted it into the bearing holder. I ordered a new bearing and used epoxy to repot the bearing in the spun-out oversized plastic seat in the holder and tried to achieve best alignment I could. It wasn't perfect and ran hot at first couple hours but has "run itself in" and is working fine. However I am ready for another failure at any time because of my quick & dirty method (had show to go to and needed samples badly). So I have bought another remanufactured router plus picked up a used one as well, plus the proper parts to rebuild the original one - -so I will have 3 on-and just in case. Next time (around 90 hrs accumulated) if I hear any hint of bearing distress I will change the lower bearing before it makes a mess, and change the brushes which is a pretty simple task and fairly cheap (less than $20 incl shipping). I now chalk this up to the cost of doing business.
.....I really like the 1 hp trim router. I never use anything but the high feed speed and cut thru hardwood at up to 1/2" depth of cut tho usually 3/8" max because I feel sorry for making it work so hard. On foam and plastic there is the option of dialing down the rpm with the manual control to reduce melting onto the bit.
.....The two drawbacks - after running I-picture you must open the gee file with a text editor and delete the 3rd or 4th line that starts with S20000 or whatever spindle speed it is - - otherwise the machine is confused and will be looking for spindle speed feedback from the original motor wiring. Second item is related to this - if you pause the program while running it will not start because again it is looking for a spindle up to speed feedback signal before it will move x-y-z. Loss of pause is unfortunate so I have to adjust clamps while it is running if I clamping comes loose or an apparent clamp interference is looming that I did not see. .....Anyhow, I would never go back to the original spindle due to its poorer performance and higher cost. Regards, Andrew.
PS - Forgot to mention another drawback - spindle does not automatically shutoff at end of cycle. My workaround was to mount a 110v device box on the right side of the router with a light switch on it. I set a dog after the program starts and it hits the switch when the y axis returns home when carving is complete. A little more effort but I am still very happy with the router performance.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2016 22:04:30 GMT -8
I have been looking at some brushless 400 watt DC spindle motors with their own power supply. Only drawback I see is the most affordable ones only operate at 12,000 rpm. I don't know if that is enough speed for the relief carving I do. There is a Kress brand spindle (looks like trim router) but is a spindle motor however it is a bit pricey. That one looks real "beefy" but I would be concerned about the weight on this 1013 machine. Some of my carves run 8-10 hrs so the constant running of the trim router would be really hard on it I think. In the end I am still on the fence but leaning towards the 400 watt brushless motor.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2016 4:30:19 GMT -8
I checked a few things out on my motors yesterday and found that the old motor with the slipping collar has significant wear on the shaft that rides in the the thrust bearing. That wear allows the spindle to flex when under cutting pressure and was likely the result of the collar slipping prior. The latest motor has some wear that is notable because the inner race of the thrust bearing will move from side to side slightly, and this allows some flex when cutting as well. I have one brand new bearing and the results are the same when trying that one, so it is not wear on the bearing.
The shaft just above the collet threads measures .586 in. on both motors which I believe was the original diameter. The shaft on the old motor measures .581 in. on the bearing contact area and the shaft on the latest motor measured .583 in. on the bearing contact area.
The inner race on a brand new bearing measures .588 in. so both shafts have under gone some wear. It would have been nice if the shaft material was a harder metal than the bearing so that wear would occur on the cheaper bearing instead of the expensive motor.
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