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Post by gregory on Dec 14, 2013 10:17:32 GMT -8
sometimes during the carve my Oliver 1013 will forget zero, I was carving a ship then about 15 minutes in the carving moved to the +X about 1", has anyone had their carving just shift?
One other time it returned to make the second of 3 passes and it started the second pass in the right spot but only traveled about 2 inches back and forth, and the carving was 8" wide.
I have read on this forum that updates are available. when I contacted Oliver they asked for my Firmware# which is 1.004, but they haven't got back with me yet, so I was hope one of you have an solution. Thanks Greg
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Post by newbie on Dec 14, 2013 10:43:36 GMT -8
I had a wandering problem on General's 1013 I finally traced it down to the rails the router moves on. Take an allen wrench and move the shaft and see if it binds in curtain areas. If so loosen one of the support rail and retighten it. Start at one end tightening it and move the router to the other end and tighten the other end. Check the distance of the bit from the table to make sure it's the same at both ends, and tighten the balance of the screws. If it binds it wants to slip on the shaft.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2013 11:10:18 GMT -8
Speaking for myself and others might agree with the fact that doing multiple passes on the 1013 is a pot shot at best and most of the time there are problems with re-positioning to the absolute correct location for each additional pass. These machines will carve .25 " in one pass with no problem, and I for one have no need for going deeper. Most of my stuff gets carved from 4.5 mm to 6mm.
I also posted a thread on here under intellicarve feedback/suggestions, topic: adjustments which addresses a problem with the table riding too loose on the rails.
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Post by gregory on Dec 14, 2013 15:03:12 GMT -8
Thank you Bob, and Newbie, I think i am carving to deep, after reading your posts I started rethinking my depth settings, I am trying to get a 3D carving with a machine not capable of doing so.
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Post by Greg on Dec 14, 2013 23:27:40 GMT -8
Bob is right I have never gotten I-picture to be accurate on multiple passes when I need to do that I use cut2d or some other software plus the machine has a .005 tolerance so your pushing it anyway.
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Post by gregory on Dec 15, 2013 9:28:55 GMT -8
so do i need to keep the number of passes to 1? This morning I was doing one of the picture frames that came with my machine I-picture software, I set it up to carve 0.5" deep in 2 passes of 0.25 in inverted mode, and about 15 minute into the first pass the spindle ran all the way over to the right limit switch and shut off, my carving was 9" x 9" on the left.
greg are you using an Oliver 1013, and are you successful.
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Post by Greg on Dec 15, 2013 10:26:52 GMT -8
Why do you need anything cut at 0.5 ? I never use I-picture to do a multipass it's hit or miss and mostly miss.
You can do a .250 pass in one pass plus if your using a 3/4 board and cut it 1/2" its gonna warp fast since you only have a 1/4" holding the stuff.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2013 4:56:43 GMT -8
I have no idea as to what it is you are trying to carve, my 1013 does fine for what I use it for. Look at the carving I have attached, it is carved at 6 mm depth (or .236 ") which is less than 1/4" and I use 1" thick stuff for my work. At less than a 1/4 inch depth of cut I am getting great details. I only use picture frame patterns to put around a carve pattern, if I only want a pic frame I'll go out and buy one,..... the cost of bits and the machining time is way too much. I had to reduce the picture quality to be able to load , so it really looks crappy. Attachments:
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Post by Greg on Dec 16, 2013 6:54:35 GMT -8
I don't know whats going on with I-picture but it will loose control with multipass settings at first I thought it was the machine but after using cut2d for sometime now (I never run the nc code through I-picture like they say to do) I have narrowed it down to the software because I have never had a bad cut with multipass using other programs.
I even setup cut2d to make 4 passes on the same cut and it never got off the line.
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Post by Greg on Dec 16, 2013 6:56:47 GMT -8
Nice detail their Bob, what kind of wood are you using? is that a urethane coating?
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Post by gregory on Dec 16, 2013 15:31:04 GMT -8
I agree with greg about the picture bob, it has great detail, bob was this done using the raster tool paths back and forth (i think this what I want to say), so greg you run your Oliver 1013 with cut2d software?
is my artcam software not the best choice.
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Post by gregory on Dec 16, 2013 15:53:31 GMT -8
where can i get training? i am a visual learner and i need someone to walk me thru bring in a drawing in artcam putting on tool paths knowing i will be sending it to an oliver 1013, saving it and then bring into I-Pictures sizing it setting up the necessary parameters to send to machine. I am wood smart, but cadcam slow.
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Post by Greg on Dec 16, 2013 16:25:41 GMT -8
I use different programs for different jobs Gregory, if I want to do a job like Bob did I would use I-picture and he did that in one pass if I need to cut out a model airplane in parts I would use cut2d.
Each program including Artcam can do things you will need and Artcam can do several you just add on packages instead of buying a new program it just depends on what you feel comfortable with.
Artcam will let you do much more in the design department but you can do that stuff with other programs like Gimp and others, I guess what your paying for in those programs is a faster easier way to do the same stuff saving you time and effort.
Artcam has a lot of videos listed on this site that will help show you how to use it.
When you make your g code you need a post processor for this machine and I think it is already installed in Artcam.
I don't run my .nc code through I-picture as it seems like a waste of time to me and the only difference is your machine will not display the runtime of the cut.
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Post by gregory on Dec 16, 2013 16:30:50 GMT -8
once you set x, y, and z to zero on the screen of the machine what is the number behind those zeros, I believe they range from 1 to 4, mine are set at 2 and never have changed them not knowing what they were. Did anyone get a good owners manual, the one i printed from my usb key is vague.
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Post by Greg on Dec 16, 2013 21:40:08 GMT -8
I had to go look to see what you were talking about and to tell you the truth I have never noticed that, there are internal settings you can adjust like making it metric or not so I assume it has to do with that setting.
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