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Post by avwoodworking on Nov 4, 2013 12:14:11 GMT -8
I just purchased an Oliver 1013 (actually gets here on 6 Nov) and have been working with the 1.2 IPicture software preparing for its arrival. I have an extensive computer background as well as Photoshop (using CS4 Extended).
My issues so far with IPicture is:
Sometimes freezes when converting. Often times freezes after conversion, prior to actually showing the 3D preview
This is especially true when trying to convert/preview a project greater than about 5 inches/125mm square.
PC is 12 Core I7 980X, 6GB Ram and Win 8. I saw some others were having issues with Win 8 and IPicture but no real solutions.
To solve this, I understand you can use other programs like PhotoVCarve to produce the gee and then run it through IPicture.
Questions: Any Solutions for the freezing I described by people who have experienced this? When using PhotoVCarve then going into IPicture, how do you set it to rough with 1 bit, pause, and resume with a final bit. (see videos of people doing it, just can't see how they are doing it)
On a side note: Is there a place on the board or can someone tell me the actual names/descriptions of the 6 bit choices on IPicture.
On a side side note: Anyone know where I can find some general guidelines on which of those 6 bits to use when and for what type of wood.
I've looked for all the above, but couldn't find answers to any of it. I appreciate any help and advice out there.
Thanks,
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2013 13:26:31 GMT -8
I had no issues such as what you are describing when I installed on computer running windows 8, you might need to get a download of microsoft runtime environment . I needed that upon install and everything has worked fine since, all be it windows 8 seems to take forever to convert images to gee code. Namely about twice as long as when it was installed on windows 7. Also windows 8 has a zillion processes running all the time and I had to go and disable a bunch of things just to improve the overall performance.
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Post by Greg on Nov 4, 2013 20:46:27 GMT -8
First those 6 bits are inch and mm so there are only 3 bits, when you move to better software Artcam or cut2d for example you can program your bits into the library and use v-bits among others.
I don't think I-picture is freezing it's just taking a real real long time to process and it makes you think its froze. The bigger the picture the longer it takes.
The i-carver can run regular gcode it just wont give your display a readout for progress. I-picture is not that accurate I can make the machine mess up when doing multiple passes using I-picture and do the same cut with twice as many passes using cut2d with no errors so I blame the software.
My friends complain about windows 8 being slow and they only do web surfing/games, I agree with Bob.
ON a side note I use win7 on a laptop with an electronic hard drive, it is fast real fast! it boots completely in about 2 seconds I don't use I-picture much anymore but if I do the conversion is about 10 seconds so comparing that to the boot there is a lot of work going on there.
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doug
New Member
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Post by doug on Jan 4, 2014 3:46:37 GMT -8
How do you import a photoV carve file into I picture ?
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Post by Greg on Jan 7, 2014 11:03:39 GMT -8
How do you import a photoV carve file into I picture ? Well you don't actually run the v carve file through it you have to save it as gcode then tell i-picture to open a gcode file and check it. I-picture will output a file in the gee code format but its almost the same as an nc code file which will work as is you just don't get a run time on your display. I never run through i-picture any more because its just another step and its not needed if your using the correct post file.
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Post by oliverman on Jan 7, 2014 12:50:30 GMT -8
We also have not experienced any issues with i-Picture itself. As mentioned, large files will take a long time to process.
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Post by Greg on Jan 8, 2014 0:01:19 GMT -8
The only problem I have had with I-picture is in multi pass, on my machine it will loose it's place 3 out of 4 times. I don't know if others have had this or not and it does not happen in other software so I just use those for multi pass.
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Post by New2CNC on May 7, 2014 0:08:27 GMT -8
Im using Win7 with 4gigs of Ram on a duocore and no issues with freezing.
My issue us that I cant figure out how to import png and make a rounded carving. I can only concave or convex but its a flat pic. What am I doing wrong or is ipicture limited.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 7, 2014 8:56:32 GMT -8
New2CNC - I'm sure others can answer better than I, but if you're trying to get a curved edging to say letters in your picture, that is done using the blur function (I use mostly gausian blur) in Photoshop or whatever type of software you do photo editing in. Ipicture itself is not a photo editing software program, it takes what you input in and converts it by reading the differences between white and black - black cuts deeper and whites cut shallow. Grays cut in between. So if you apply a blur to your picture, (white letters on a black background for example), it will blur the edges with many types of gray - rounding the picture from the black to the white for a curved edge. Input this oval picture into your ipicture software, then make the depth of your cut over .5" just to get a better look (in preview) at what it is doing. Look at it from the side and you'll see that it's a curved button from top to bottom. This was just a white oval on black background, with blur added. If you then drop the cut depth down to whatever it is you want for the gcode portion, you'll keep the curved shape in the same proportion. This picture is what I used to make the button name tags in my avatar.
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Post by hrguy2@gmail.com on Sept 3, 2014 3:18:48 GMT -8
When I am carving I find the sides of the carving to be really rough. Is there a way to make it smoother?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2014 11:38:42 GMT -8
Depends on what you mean by rough sides. If it's the carving itself is what has rough sides from the bottom up to the rounded carving itself, then your depth is too deep for that particular carving. If you mean the outside edges of the carved section on a piece, then it's because you're asking the machine to carve from zero to full depth (or full depth to zero) at the end of each stroke. What you need is to put a border around the entire picture so that the 1013 slowly works its way down to the full depth, giving you a look of a router cut. Here's an example where I used a blurred edge to get down to the final cut depth: Another idea is to just cut off the rough edges if you have enough wood between the carving and the edge: And here's another border that got the job done also:
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Post by Richardrig on Jan 25, 2019 8:16:47 GMT -8
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Post by Greg on Jan 25, 2019 8:27:59 GMT -8
we need to stop guest accounts from being able to post
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Post by FatPoppy on Jan 25, 2019 11:28:48 GMT -8
I agree!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2019 16:14:58 GMT -8
Wish I could do something about it, but I don't have the ability
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