Post by gullyfoyle on Mar 10, 2013 5:52:35 GMT -8
With image software for the monitor to match a printer a test pastern or calibration tool is required.
The same is true with video and television.
I-Picture reads shades of Gray.
Downloading a Grayscale calibration image and running it through I-Picture should allow for a better tweaking of settings after the cut.
If the settings don't look correct, or if you use a Micrometer for more exactness, run test prints until the desired result is achieved.
This also allows for differences in woods.
A test print of the calibration photo adjusted for optimal settings will now be a base to establish the best quality for each piece of wood.
This should also compensate for variables among machines.
Each calibration will be machine specific.
Grayscale image
www.avforums.com/forums/attachments/lcd-led-lcd-tvs/220040d1295047097-samsung-c530-owners-thread-part-2-grayscale.jpg
www.hometheatershack.com/gallery/file.php?n=7898
accad.osu.edu/~aprice/courses/752/images/gray_scales.gif
cdn.avsforum.com/5/56/5666885d_vbattach97317.jpeg
More detailed
www.w6rz.net/burstlow.png
arachnoid.com/python/weatherreader/graphics/test_pattern_chart.jpg
serviceabc.ru/images/Test%20Image/abcservicegray.jpg
i194.photobucket.com/albums/z207/Ram4ever/Fluorescent%20Minerals/greyscale.gif
I screwed around with Grayscale after printing the supplied Eagle. The lighter parts of the Eagle "face" and body didn't cut at all using .118.
I cut a couple of Grayscale tests, the first link in each section, and found that toward the light side the cut is off. For me it was the first three on the light side. I think the z axis read something like -.001 on the first light cut ( I should of written it down, damn old age)
Maybe .125 should be standard.
I also noticed that fifth in from the light side then four more toward black looked to cut better. From fifth to sixth there was a greater drop than from fourth to fifth. Same was true from ninth to tenth, than eight to ninth.
Greater drop is still fractions of millimeters, but I think that is the I-Picture sweet spot. Where I-Picture processes optimally. From five to nine. Next time I'll try to find something numbered to closer pinpoint the color temperature.
The only problem is when something like burst cuts, first test in second section, .125 may be too deep for the thinner lines.
I should have paused the first lighter cuts and used a feeler gauge to get exact height from the wood., then compared it with z-axis numbers.
Oh well maybe next time.
I wonder if using other software to stay closer to the middle zone would make a better translation for I-Picture. No Whites or Blacks just median shades of Gray.
The same is true with video and television.
I-Picture reads shades of Gray.
Downloading a Grayscale calibration image and running it through I-Picture should allow for a better tweaking of settings after the cut.
If the settings don't look correct, or if you use a Micrometer for more exactness, run test prints until the desired result is achieved.
This also allows for differences in woods.
A test print of the calibration photo adjusted for optimal settings will now be a base to establish the best quality for each piece of wood.
This should also compensate for variables among machines.
Each calibration will be machine specific.
Grayscale image
www.avforums.com/forums/attachments/lcd-led-lcd-tvs/220040d1295047097-samsung-c530-owners-thread-part-2-grayscale.jpg
www.hometheatershack.com/gallery/file.php?n=7898
accad.osu.edu/~aprice/courses/752/images/gray_scales.gif
cdn.avsforum.com/5/56/5666885d_vbattach97317.jpeg
More detailed
www.w6rz.net/burstlow.png
arachnoid.com/python/weatherreader/graphics/test_pattern_chart.jpg
serviceabc.ru/images/Test%20Image/abcservicegray.jpg
i194.photobucket.com/albums/z207/Ram4ever/Fluorescent%20Minerals/greyscale.gif
I screwed around with Grayscale after printing the supplied Eagle. The lighter parts of the Eagle "face" and body didn't cut at all using .118.
I cut a couple of Grayscale tests, the first link in each section, and found that toward the light side the cut is off. For me it was the first three on the light side. I think the z axis read something like -.001 on the first light cut ( I should of written it down, damn old age)
Maybe .125 should be standard.
I also noticed that fifth in from the light side then four more toward black looked to cut better. From fifth to sixth there was a greater drop than from fourth to fifth. Same was true from ninth to tenth, than eight to ninth.
Greater drop is still fractions of millimeters, but I think that is the I-Picture sweet spot. Where I-Picture processes optimally. From five to nine. Next time I'll try to find something numbered to closer pinpoint the color temperature.
The only problem is when something like burst cuts, first test in second section, .125 may be too deep for the thinner lines.
I should have paused the first lighter cuts and used a feeler gauge to get exact height from the wood., then compared it with z-axis numbers.
Oh well maybe next time.
I wonder if using other software to stay closer to the middle zone would make a better translation for I-Picture. No Whites or Blacks just median shades of Gray.