As Bob points out in the picture above, the three project size boxes are (from left to right) the X, the Y, and then the Z. X and Y do change each other when you put in one or the other dimensions, the Z depth dimension doesn't affect the other two.
One other thing that Bob didn't mention and he "discovered" in making the machine work better while carving is to make sure that you have a white border around the entire picture. This apparently sets the start point for the z dimension and tends to give better overall results. It doesn't have to be a large border, but it does have an effect in making the carving come out better. When working with picture images, it also is recommended that you convert jpg to PNG when saving, it gives your final results better edges - especially when you clean the picture up in a photo editing program.
I never had any problem in converting from Windows 7 to 10, once I had it on my new CPU I loaded ipicture and it worked right off the bat.
yes, i got alot of those greyscale images like you posted and there loaded in my pictures. ok so when open ipicture i clicked on file drop down to image and loaded my own image that works fine, then i went back to file and clicked open gcode, and typed gcode vee or something like that and clicked open, then put the settings in.. example X 10.50 for 10 1/2" Y 6.25 for 6 1/4" and Z 1.50 for 1 1/2" because the instructions say put in the distance between the bit and the project. then i click convert and then most of the time the blue loading bar go's across and finish's then says ready.... when it install it in the machine it says no image ? so i install the fd back into the computer and that picture shows up so there is an image on the fd ?? i know i'm getting close!! i feel like i'm just a couple clicks away from this working.. thanx
rick52113 , remember i'm doing this for the first time and man, these machines can make really make someone feel kinda stupid! i can useually figure things out but man this one is tuff! but i don't give up, i just dig in more untill... thanks
"" and Z 1.50 for 1 1/2" because the instructions say put in the distance between the bit and the project.""
You are reading something incorrectly, when you are at your machine setting up to carve and moving the Z to position you are supposed to put the bit just touching the surface. Your Z depth that you set up in I-Picture can only be between 0 and .25 inches. The maximum cut depth is .25 inches.
If you have set the Z at 1 1/2 inches in I-Picture your machine is going to plow right down into the workpiece as deep as it can go, and will likely cause damage to the spindle motor
Page 22 of manual item #7 Note that for the Z axis move the spindle so that the tip of the cutting tool just touches the work piece surface.
All in all I think you are over complicating what you need to do to make the machine work, for instance there is no reason to open a gcode file unless (A) you intend to edit it or (B) you are just curious as to what it looks like and in that case it is nothing but page after page of numerical codes which tell the machine what to do. I just opened the Gcode file for the image I mention below and it contains 625 pages of gcode amounting to 1,422,008 numerical commands For instance I just converted the picture of the wings I loaded in the previous post previous post. I put in these dimensions: in the box for X (first box) I put 10.0 inches, then clicked on the second box and it auto entered the dimension of 9.62 inches Which is correct because the image is not a perfect square. I then entered in the depth (Z) box 0.118, left the scan step box as it was and chose a 1/32" bit in that box. I then set the Feed Depth per cycle at 0.118 (which is the same as the top box for Z depth. Next I clicked to convert, it took about 3 minutes and converted the image to code. I renamed it Wingy and saved it to a file. You should just save it to your flash drive.
If you wanted to carve it all you have to to do is save it to your flash drive and put the flash drive into the machine and pick that file to carve, and follow the instructions for setting up the machine as per the manual.
I-Picture program was designed so that someone could use a CNC carver without having to learn a bunch of CAD program commands and 3D modeling techniques. If you follow the instructions like I posted earlier EXACTLY like the instructions, with no variation you should be able to carve that design with the machine.
Hi Bob, i think your right that i'm making this harder than it should... but all i was doing really is going by the manuel on page 15, useing i-picture.... 1. opening a file
start i picture under the tab, click open file to upload your image, alow formats to do, to open a gcode file click open gcode!!!! OMG... i thought it said open gcode! instead of (to) open a gcode file. that is where i messed up because i read it wrong! well thanks to you just maybe it will work now ? and i'll take that 1 1/2 out and put in 0.118 now for the x/y i just put in the size of the piece of wood and the machine does the converting so the image fits right ? another confusing area is do i upload a greyscale image and mine ? or am i loading a greyscale image to i picture and my picture to the fd...
I-Picture converts your image that you open in I-Picture from a picture / image, to the numerical code (Gcode) which tells the machine every move it has to make to carve the image. So after it has converted the image all you do is save the converted result (Not an Image/picture) to your flash drive so that you can put it in the machine and do the setup for the carve.
In other words I-Picture translates a picture / image into the command codes that the machine understands....the machine does not do anything with just a picture. The picture has to have been converted to Gcode which are the ONLY operational commands it understands.
When you are logged in here if you click on my name on here it will bring up my profile, once it does, up in the top right there is the option to send me a message, do that and send me your email address and I will send you converted file that you can simply load on your flash drive and use to run the machine to do a carve.
It will be the wings image I put on an earlier post. What I am going to do is set the size of the image to carve to be a 4" x 3.85" and carve depth at .118 A small piece that will not take long to carve and you can see the result. Download the file I send you and save it, then put your flash drive in your computer and load that file onto the flash drive. I named that file Wingy2 so just leave that name there.
Get you a scrap piece of wood that is at least 5" x 5" and set it up in the clamps on your machine (wood grain running the same direction as the long length of the table).
Find and mark where the center of the wood piece is. That is where I set the origin of the carve in the file I will send you to be.
Go thru the steps that begin on page 21 of the manual (Setting up to carve)
Under step 5the file you will be looking for is the one named Wingy2 (If you have successfully loaded it to your flash drive) Once you have found the file hit the enter button and proceed with the instructions from the manual
Last Edit: Mar 14, 2017 14:50:30 GMT -8 by Deleted
ipicture sets up the picture to carve based upon the darkness of the colors within the picture. White equals zero depth, black equals the deepest depth set in ipicture. Grays of varying darkness make up the area between white and black. When you set the Z dimension in ipicture, you are telling it how deep to carve from where you manually set the bit on the setup, I bring the bit down to just where it touches the wood and then lift it up just a little so that on "white" sections the bit actually floats just a little above the wood carving nothing but air. I never set my carving depth (Z) at anything more than 0.25 anymore, most carvings are at .2 or less.
We recommend using a guassian blur (or other type blur) within your photo editing software to soften the edges. For example, a black box on a white background. The ipicture software would interpret this as a straight plunge cut the instant it comes upon that black area, plunge cuts put excessive side loading on the spindle motor leading to failure. I'm a prime example of someone who did this at the beginning. The blur allows you to round off the edge slightly so the bit slowly works its way down to the final depth. This is not necessary when you are using the projects provided with the machine, they've already done so.
As you can see the first picture which was just a picture does not yield a carved image that will be the desired result.
The second picture is one of the included images that came with the machine, and you can see that it will carve a nice piece.
If you are trying to load your own just plain pictures, you are not going to get results that are worth your time and effort, I suggest that for the time being you stick with the images that came with the machine.
It takes quite a bit of time to learn how to take a picture and work it over so that you can get carvings that look right. Diving right in and trying to use a plain un-worked picture from the get go is not going to make you happy with how it turns out. The file I sent you is designed to let you carve Something so that you can see how the machine operates.
You are trying to make a leap to carving your own choice of images, but until you learn how to make them you are going to have nothing but frustration, as I said simply using a picture that has not been made into a Grayscale 3d rendering will not please you at all.
ok so my own image is not doable right now, so just use the GS images from the cd that came with it. so what about just text for a sign ? like say (the lake house) or just a outlined drawing of a football ? sent you an email on the results... maybe something wrong with machine ? it let me go through all the steps up till the end where the final click process... the router never turned on and the table went far left and the screen said completed and end. but the FD load file said GCODE and not WINGY2 dont know it thats right but it looked like it was to carve but did not! atleast i know most of the time i was doing it wrong because i was loading my own image.... but i will carve a GS image just to see but if it can carve text and outlined drawings that would be nice!! thanks for your time and help guys..
Last Edit: Mar 15, 2017 19:53:30 GMT -8 by jgstang
You can use line drawings and text to do carves, how ever you still need in most cases to add some small amount of Blur to the edges so that there is not a sharp jump form high to low. That blur otherwise known as Gaussian Blur is a tool that is available in several photo/image editing programs such as GIMP or Photoshop. I use GIMP and I believe Rick uses Photoshop.
Rick has more experience with Photoshop and me with GIMP. Gimp is available for free, However if you go trolling the internet for it you will get multiple sites that have the download, but the only one that is safe is a download from Gimp.org . All others will add hidden software to your PC
For instance if you are carving some text with the letter R, the top part of the "R" where there is a semi circle could and likely will chip out. That is just an example, but it could occur with just about any letter in the alphabet.
Line drawing of the car could do the same thing in several areas. The thing with that is all it takes is 1 or 2 chip out places and your piece will be ruined because it won't look right.
The file I sent you was named "Wingy2", when you downloaded it that should not have changed. If it was loaded to your flash drive it should appear as Wingy2.Gee, if that did not come up on your screen then it is not there. Try adding it to the flash drive by dragging and dropping it onto your flash drive.
it worked Bob, your a good guy for helping me so much with this! it was so fun watching it do the carve... so if i do text or a outline drawing make sure its not clear and sharp but blury but so you can still know what it is! i'll try that soon.
Last Edit: Mar 16, 2017 16:20:07 GMT -8 by jgstang
I'm glad you finally got the machine to run something for you. From what I am seeing in the picture you posted it appears that you had the wood grain turned the wrong way. You are going to need the X axis movement to be going across the grain instead of with the grain, that is mentioned in the manual as well. "" Now about the blur, what you are looking for is not really as simple as a blurry rendition of your line drawing. The effect I described earlier is known as "gaussian blur" which is available in the programs I mentioned earlier. What that effect does is take for instance you pure black lines and softens the edges somewhat.
I made this as an example it is a black line "X" on a white background, the first is a preview without any gaussian blur:
And this preview has a mild gaussian blur effect added to it:
You will see that the first pic has basically straight up and down lines, and that the second one has more of a gentle slope of the lines.
Last Edit: Mar 16, 2017 19:37:19 GMT -8 by Deleted