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Post by soccerjoe on Jan 2, 2017 7:25:00 GMT -8
Last nite, I went to the basement to check on a carving that I started a little earlier. As soon as I opened the door, smoke and a burning smell was evident. I got the machine and a steady but light smoke was coming from the back left of the machine. I unplugged it and could tell the plastic/rubber back cover was burning inside. An hour later, I took off the back cover and found many wires burnt (pictures attached). Now I'll try to figure out what started it and how to fix this. I have a lead on a used General CNC or I'm also considering a new ShapeOko kit. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2017 11:17:16 GMT -8
Ouch. Glad you caught it early before the house went up! I need to look up what a ShapeOko kit is, that is a new one on me.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2017 5:47:05 GMT -8
Glad you caught it when you did before it got much worse. The area that is covered with the hole punched grate is the power inverter / converter that transforms 110 volt ac to dc. However it looks like the issue began in your on / off switch, I am going to look for a suitable replacement for mine because every now and then when I turn the machine on, I hear a sizzling / crackling sound. The side switch is a rather cheap looking one, so I am going for one that is better made, I don't necessarily have to have the light to tell me the machine is on so a simple on/off switch will do.
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Post by soccerjoe on Jan 3, 2017 9:24:44 GMT -8
Bob,
Any insight into replacement on/off switch, rewiring diagrams and/or how to test the inverter / converter would be appreciated.
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Post by ajtkrmc on Jan 3, 2017 12:38:32 GMT -8
soocerjoe -
It is possible to disassemble the switch though it must be done carefully to ensure you don't lose a part (ball bearing) and that you note the orientation of one or two pieces of spring steel that seat in the plastic housing. It has been a 6-12 months since I did it and it did not go together right the first time and I had to take it apart and reassemble again correctly.
My problem with the switch was that it simply did not turn on reliably, though no heat or smoke was ever noted. I found it contaminated with sawdust inside. I cleaned it and used dielectric grease to lubricate/prevent arcing when I re-assembled. I now have the a machine enclosure made of plastic sheeting, and I have taped off the switch and HMI and other electrical points of access (usb port and fan) to keep them outside of the sawdust environment. If you feel adventurous try taking the switch apart....
Regards, Andrew.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2017 14:28:03 GMT -8
From the looks of the fire scene it looks like the switch is likely toast. I have looked around and not been able to find any wiring schematics for the 1013 so I am thinking of emailing Iconic CNC to see if they have any wiring diagrams.. Researching power inverter/converters the one listed in the parts diagram for the 1013 is listed as a : NES-150, * But there is no reference about the actual output DC volts. There are many different models of the NES-150 all being 110 volts AC in and various DC voltage out so you are going to need to know which one it is since the best thing to do would be to replace it as well as the switch because it looks like it may have been damaged by the wires shorting across each other.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2017 14:50:34 GMT -8
The power supply units are fairly inexpensive running in the $ 30 to 40 price range. I emailed Iconic to see if they have any wiring diagrams for the 1013 and the specs for what output voltage the power supply is.
***** I have been able to track down that the power unit is a 24 volt DC output, but still need to know what the output watts are.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2017 4:25:11 GMT -8
It looks like there is going to be a lot of re-wiring from the pics. I have found out that the AC to DC power supply module needs to be an output of 24 volts DC with a rating of 50 watts an up. Here is one on Amazon:  Here is a link to the wiring diagram for a General CNC 40-913 (same as Oliver 1013) : Wiring |
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Post by soccerjoe on Jan 4, 2017 16:56:50 GMT -8
Bob,
thanks so much for your help. I'll start looking into getting the parts I need on order this weekend.
thanks … john
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2017 17:17:22 GMT -8
You might take note that any of the multi strand wires (covered in the gray sheathing) are shielded wires to eliminate electrical interference in the electronics.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2017 5:11:32 GMT -8
Soccerjoe, Did you ever get your machine back in operation or did you decide to go a different route?
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