Christmas

Rick, I did have problems before with the X axis setup. I believe that is what led to the coupler that connects the lead screw to the stepper motor breaking. There is a plastic assembly that connects the spindle plate to the X axis lead screw, this I had identified as an "anti backlash nut" . I had attempted to explain that to Nick at Oliver once so I could order a new one and he just could not get it. What he wanted to sell me was a complete X axis assembly with the lead screw and the plastic assembly together for the whopping price of $ 330 as my only option. I did take it apart to inspect and clean it up and it was quite the nightmare to get back together correctly. The plastic assembly is actually 2 pieces which screw together, there are 4 tiny screws that hold it together and they are spring loaded so getting the tension correct was the big problem, as both halves exert pressure in opposite outward directions on the lead screw threads. When putting it back on the lead screw, you have to compress the 2 halves so that the piece will thread back onto the lead screw, and I chose to thread it on to the lead screw until it was in the middle so that any tension build up would be equal as it runs back and forth. The 4 tiny spring loaded screws are only threaded into plastic (other half) so you have to be careful not to strip the threads out. I did have to go back and adjust the tension on those screws a couple of times to get everything to run right and I did that with the piece mounted on the lead screw with a small jewelers phillips screw driver.
Like I said this was about akin to doing brain surgery but I finally got it to work right. The part will eventually wear out, and I don't know if there are many options for a correct replacement.


Here is an example of an anti backlash nut/coupler. The middle example is what is on our machine:

After Iconic and I emailed a couple of times, I decided from his suggestions that the problem I've been having with error code 21 MIGHT BE in the setup I have for the flash drive. I had installed a USB extender cord, with the hope that by eliminating the in/out of a stick into the port I might prolong the life of the port (having replaced two motherboards already when the port broke). The extender I had was about 10 inches long, I'd put it into the port, then looped it around and duct taped it to the top of the machine. Where I then put the stick into was on the far end, but the cord hung loose about 5" - no big deal in my mind.

I'm thinking that the vibration of the machine may have been causing the drive to lose a signal momentarily to the HMI, causing the failure. I took the extender out of the equation, plugged the same stick/program directly into the machine, and it carved fine. Granted, that was only one project so far, but it appeared to solve the problem. I'm going to try the extender again, but only after firmly taping down the entire cord length so there is not a vibration problem. I like the idea, but hate ruined wood. This table top needs finishing, but the carving came out fine.

I've quit using PNY flash drives, that is what was in my machine both times it broke. It worked fine, but I feel that the PNY ones fit too tight and that probably contributed to the problem of breaking off that small plastic piece. I use SanDisk and Cruzer now, got one of each and just swap them out each time. I agree with you, it's probably time to reformat them and start over.

I also have used a planer to salvage wood for the next project, the problem with these table tops is that at 15" diameter they are wider than the blades in my planer (13" max). The table top will slide through the opening, so I'm thinking of trying to run it through one time, then turn it 90 degrees and run it again.....do you have any experience with this, and if it works or not? The table tops are glued together spruce, about $3.50 for a 15" diameter one at Menards. I can't get too upset over adding it to the kindling pile.

I wanted to get the NO on there asap. The planer will likely grab the wood when put in across the grain and being those are glue ups there might be a calamity if it does ( Picture that comes to mind is flying wood ) You are right at 3.50 apiece it's not too bad, not like losing some Cherry, Walnut or Maple @ $$$$ a board foot. Even if it would work I think there would still be an area that does not get planed.

*** And as a footnote FYI kind of thing, I have made cutting boards out scrap wood periodically and once had the notion to make end grain cutting boards because they hold up better to a knife. BUT when I researched that idea (thinking of using my planer to even them out) I found out that is a terrible idea, watched you tube vids of exploding cutting boards. So don't ever try it.

Had a great Christmas with family and friends, still have one more family get together to go for family on New Years day.
The Santa carve looks pretty good, although the design probably could use some refinements, I just was messing around one day and made the design while sipping my morning coffee. Whenever you get around to going to your lumber mill, you will likely feel like it's Christmas again when you start looking around at all of that nice looking wood that will give you some better alternatives to using Oak. White Oak does not have as bold of contrast on the different grain as the Red Oak if you are still partial to using Oak. Cherry and Maple are still my favorites to use for plaques.