|
|
Wood
Feb 18, 2013 12:03:25 GMT -8
Post by Rick on Feb 18, 2013 12:03:25 GMT -8
Just got my 1013, haven't even used it yet (had to build a good steady table for it). In regards to wood - I'm assuming it must be knot free on the carving surface? And does anyone know just how small the wood piece can be? I've got a box of mahogany wood, all just a little larger than a business card and about 3/8" thick - can I use these?
|
|
|
|
Wood
Feb 18, 2013 12:52:32 GMT -8
Post by gullyfoyle on Feb 18, 2013 12:52:32 GMT -8
As long as the clamps can hold it in place.
I tried 1/4 but it would it was too small to be held correctly.
Then again it is only a matter of clamping the wood down. You have the size set in I-Picture, you run the border option after doing setup, now your area is defined as to where it safe to clamp.
You can rig up a clamping system, maybe even use longer bolts in the present clamps.
Or you could try the double sided tape thing to increase the height of the wood.
At worst you could just rip some pine out of the wall and play all day. Hehehe....
|
|
|
|
Wood
Feb 18, 2013 16:49:29 GMT -8
Post by Greg on Feb 18, 2013 16:49:29 GMT -8
I like an idea I saw the other day and will cut one when I get around to it.
The process is to make a black picture and set the size to whatever you want it to be in I-picture
then use a large board as a waste board and cut the black picture to a depth of say 1/2" so you can just drop your work peice down in the hole to hold your board in place.
Hope you understand what I said.
Greg
|
|
|
|
Wood
Feb 21, 2013 6:54:23 GMT -8
Post by gullyfoyle on Feb 21, 2013 6:54:23 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Wood
Feb 21, 2013 15:55:47 GMT -8
Post by rick on Feb 21, 2013 15:55:47 GMT -8
that's a great idea greg, since I'd want to make a lot of them this will work fine.
|
|
|
|
Wood
Feb 27, 2013 23:52:12 GMT -8
Post by Greg on Feb 27, 2013 23:52:12 GMT -8
Up until this week I have spent the last 5 months or so learning how to make the pictures like the samples that come with the unit and making photos come out good.
In this time I have used up all my scrap wood in the shed (ya) and it was all pine and cedar.
I bought some real nice wood at Home depot Oak preferred board it was 8" x 12' for 50 bucks!!
Yes 1 8" board was 50 bucks! I used it on a cut of my grandson last week and I love it!!
The hardwood holds detail much better than softwood and it has no knots so no warpage.
|
|
|
|
Wood
Feb 28, 2013 16:55:20 GMT -8
Post by gullyfoyle on Feb 28, 2013 16:55:20 GMT -8
Instead of Home Depot head to a lumber yard.
Better wood at cheaper prices.
What bit were you using?
I use the 1/50. r0.5 is the same bit.
I use slow speed and the advice on changing the scan step to something lower for better definition.
Although I've had good luck with random pictures on fast with the 1/50.
Actually surprising results. Then again I used your advice on depth and sanding.
Birch looks nice.
|
|
|
|
Wood
Feb 28, 2013 23:31:11 GMT -8
Post by Greg on Feb 28, 2013 23:31:11 GMT -8
I used the 1/32 bit dang it now you make me want to do another one with the 1/50 to see how it comes out. Lol
I seem to be addicted to cutting pics of my grandson. LOL
The oak took the stain and sand a lot better than softwood not as much stain seeped into the wood and the sanding (after drying overnight) brought lots of detail I don't see in softwood.
Greg
|
|
|
|
Wood
Mar 1, 2013 7:51:15 GMT -8
Post by gullyfoyle on Mar 1, 2013 7:51:15 GMT -8
The problem I have with nice grained wood, is I only want to cut wood related images into them. Old barns, forests, so on. If you really want excellent detail the 1/50 with smaller scan steps and run at slow. You need to run a couple of tests to see which depth creates a greater definition. Even fast and sloppy cuts look nice with the smaller bit. My theory is I should be able to pull any B&W or Grayscale image from the web and cut it as found. The main issue is finding the right depth so fine details are recognizable. I tried this www.thelightsrightstudio.com/learning/B&W-Fine-Art/B&WFineArt_GrayscaleMode.jpgTurned out remarkably well, but the grass could use more definition. I think I cut it at .08 when .100, or even bog standard .118 would have been better. I'm tempted to try some Dorothea Lange as much of her work looks easily cut with no processing. In those days B&W was an art and people took great pains to capture the depth and detail of the subject. Almost ready made for CNC. I've also been testing Linseed oil instead of stain. Looks real nice on the Cedar. |
|
|
|
Wood
Mar 1, 2013 9:36:58 GMT -8
Post by Greg on Mar 1, 2013 9:36:58 GMT -8
Ha! I looked at that pic some time ago and thought about cutting it Lol.
The cut I made in the oak last week was at .118 and the darkest spots seem a little deep so my next cut will be around .100 or maybe .090.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Wood
Sept 23, 2014 5:25:37 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 5:25:37 GMT -8
I'm carving a picture of my sister-in-law (deceased) for my brother who wants to give one to each of the kids for Christmas. I think I have the photo done as well as I can get it, and a prototype is pictured here. What I need is some help on choosing the final type of wood to carve. This particular cut was on some Oak I had at home from a previous project, the face/neck were stained with Early American and the hair (hers was black) with a dark walnut stain. Then sanded both locations and one coat of polyurethane (so far) was applied. I don't think that it came out too bad, but I'm concerned with the grain of the wood in the face showing through too much. I was wondering if anyone could suggest another wood type to use that might show the grain less, maybe maple or birch? I'm not an expert on wood types, so any suggestions would be welcomed.  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Wood
Sept 23, 2014 7:55:35 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 7:55:35 GMT -8
Rick you are right about the Oak grain showing up too strong, I think Maple, Birch or Poplar would be good choices however if you use Poplar you need to be sure and use a good sharp bit or else it will have a lot of surface fuzz. I have found that to be the case with most if the softer woods. The majority of my pieces are done in Maple but on some pieces you still have a lot of grain showing.
Footnote:
I am in the process of getting a bunch of pieces ready for a big 3 day arts and crafts show here in madison this weekend, should have right at 100 pieces for the show when I ever get them all done.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Wood
Sept 23, 2014 10:02:54 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 10:02:54 GMT -8
Things are getting all "lacquered up" around here:  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Wood
Sept 23, 2014 13:09:00 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 13:09:00 GMT -8
I've pretty much given up on poplar, for exactly the reason you mentioned. I have only used Maple once, and during my visit into Menards and Lowes today I saw some pieces that I think have minimal grain even when I glue them together for a larger picture. The birch I saw had a lot of dark grain in it so that scared me off, I've never worked with that. I haven't stained in maple yet either, so that could be interesting as well. Looks like you got some pretty large pieces for the show, that cross on the bottom of the picture - how long is it? I haven't had a lot of projects in the works of late, end of the summer closing down the lake place and doing some other projects for the kids: blank picture frames for my artist daughter-in-law, frames around pegboard wall hangings for my daughter, etc. Need to get out and paint the frames of the new windows we had put in three weeks ago, or the winter will be here before I get around to it.  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Wood
Sept 23, 2014 15:49:27 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 15:49:27 GMT -8
I have been busy with this and that for some time, that span I can't remember when it began, but the last 3 weeks I've been going gang busters on those items. The cross in the pic is 17" long and is 1 of those freebees from 4m3d. The profile pic is a piece of red maple without much in the way of grain lines.
|
|
