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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2016 15:06:08 GMT -8
I'm having a terrible time trying to carve small lettering into the wood and getting a decent result. I've tried different depths, different fonts, blurred, not blurred, etc. I'm not getting a decent result. It appears as if I'd carve the piece with raised lettering, I get nice rounded letters and it appears as if it would carve nicely. However, I need recessed letters and even just taking the exact same picture (where the results are good with raised letters) and then inverting it (both in ipicture and before inserting into ipicture); I start getting letters that have peaks and valleys in each letter. In most cases the horizontal lines in a capital "E" don't cut at all unless I'm all the way down to a .2 z setting.
Any suggestions as to font, size, etc would be welcome. I've cut a sample five or six times and keep getting lettering that is not readable.
Nominal 6" wide board (5.5 actual), 1/4" thick oak. I can go any length almost.
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2016 17:53:21 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2016 10:13:34 GMT -8
Thanks Bob. I'd tried Arial Rounded Bold MT; Cooper Std Black, etc without any luck. Do you think that it makes a difference in how the original design is made? For example I used a black background and white letters, then inverted the picture (both in photoshop before hand, and in ipicture itself). What I needed was a white background with black lettering, I'm making a "box" with drink recipes carved into the wood and a glass tube inside, so you can mix party size drinks without a measuring cup. Getting the right height of each ingredient takes some playing around, which I did. And now it's driving me crazy because I can't get it to carve.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2016 10:50:41 GMT -8
Bob, I tried it with Segoe font, still the same result. If I ipicture it with raised letters, I get nice uniform height. If I try it with recessed lettering, I get spikes in some places and zero carving on some portions of the lettering - it's not an even height across. I've got to be doing something wrong, my z is anywhere from 0.15 to 0.2, x is 5.5", and I don't care what y is because I'll be cutting it to length to fit the glass tube. I can't leave a white border around it and invert it, because then it will try to cut the border when it inverts to black. It doesn't seem to make a difference anyway, I've tried it. I've since tried dropping the z to a 0.125 depth and it looks like, in ipicture, that this might work so it's possible that I had the depth too deep. I also changed the center oval to a gray hoping to make a difference in how the ipicture software is going to determine depth throughout the picture.
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2016 4:32:00 GMT -8
Rick, I have found that most boards if not all are never actually an even thickness whether store bought or ran thru my planer. Using digital calipers to measure all around a piece of lumber you will get all kinds of readings, which when you are trying to carve small and shallow depth items this might account for the failure to carve as well as planned. Most of the stuff I carve is set to carve at the depth of 4-5 mm, and when I am setting up in the machine I have a pointed machinists alignment tool that I use to place a small recess at my origin point. I then can set the Z depth on the machine to be slightly lower than the surface so that I end up with an even carve. I know you could just drive Z setting into the wood a bit, but I do not want to put any stress on the motor by applying pressure in the Z direction. I have a marine corps design the has the words "semper fidelis" in it and when carved each these letters are only at best around a 16th" wide and tall, none the less they do carve faintly but enough to read them. I made this one: Segoe semi bold and marketing script, only blurred by 3 I did note that when adding the text layers that in order to get them in the right position they actually overlapped on some which might have a bearing on how they would carve if you did your blur individually, I waited until the whole thing was done and did an overall blur, just slightly since I figure you are wanting to fill the lettering.
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2016 11:06:52 GMT -8
Bob, with 1/4" thick boards you also will get some cupping so the board can never be considered completely flat. I've been bringing the bit down to just about touching, then manually running the bit all over the piece to make sure it isn't carving in. That may be part of the problem, since the portion of the "E" that doesn't carve seems to be on the outside of the board. I've only been using a 1.5 blur, figuring to do more would run the letters together too much in a shallow cut.
I just looked at yours in ipicture, and there is still some spiking in the lettering - the vertical piece in the "E" is deeper than the three horizontal legs. But your's is less than mine. I'm going to carve yours and bring the bit down in touch with the board since the origin is right in the middle of the cupped side (very small cup but there is some).
Guess I just can't figure out why this same picture produces great raised lettering, but worse recessed. I'd think they'd be the same. I know the Marine Corp drawing you're talking about, the Semper Fidalis didn't come out readable for me but that might of been my z setting also.
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Post by Deleted on May 7, 2016 6:17:06 GMT -8
Gonna start from scratch and redo everything: 1. Seguo SemiBold lettering 2. "Word Art" text which will allow me to adjust the size of the text to meet the piece 3. Reduce the center peep hole to give me more space on the sides for lettering 4. Screw the piece to the sacrificial board rather than double sided tape, hopefully this will take out some of the cupping in 1/4" boards and pull it flat. 5. Put the z start setting right at the wood without any spacing. I'll sand out any scratches if I get decent lettering. 6. Gausian blur at 2.0
Here's hoping for improvement. I got concerned that I'd redone the piece so many times and different ways on the computer that this might be causing some of the problems. Another problem Bob's msg brought to my mind is the slight cupping I had in the wood, much of the problems I was having was on the outside edges which were slightly lower than the cupped middle where my origin is. I'll post when this latest attempt finishes next week.
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Post by Deleted on May 11, 2016 10:30:44 GMT -8
Finally got the results I was hoping for. I had to:
1. Screw the piece down to a perfectly flat board, using tension to take any cupping out of the 1/4" thick piece. 2. Bring the z depth to where it just did not touch a piece of paper set on the board. 3. Z depth setting of 0.15 4. Low speed setting 5. Leveled the table (seems silly, but over the years the 1013 had gotten out of level). This probably didn't effect the cutting, but it was interesting to note it had changed. 6. Changed lettering from a text box in MS word, to WordArt. The difference here is that WordArt lets you pull and draw the lettering into wider/taller shapes to meet your piece. You can't do the same in a standard word text box. Making the wording wider opens up the cut and gives easier to read results. Used Segue MicroBold in both tries, using WordArt gave much better results.
I've cut this piece at least 10 times so far, usually I can tell after the first inch if it was working and would cancel out if not. I'd say the biggest problem with micro text is in making sure that your wood piece is perfectly flat so that you get the same results on the edges as you do the middle. This was probably the hardest problem I had, and I had to switch from using double sided tape to hold it down to using screws through the base board so that I could apply tension to different parts of the workpiece.
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2016 4:10:42 GMT -8
Try, try and try again, glad to see it has worked out for you....Pics?
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2016 15:25:09 GMT -8
These are straight off the machine, have not done any sanding or staining yet. Sad part of all this is, now that I got the lettering to work I've done this over so many times that the formula marks are all wrong and I'll have to start over from scratch. At least I know how to do it now. Don't know why it's turning the picture sideways.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2016 9:25:25 GMT -8
Here's another example of working with mini letters. My son built a play table for his daughter, and has led sidelighting built in for a plexiglas center. Being a big Princess fan, he put forth her favorite movies in the plexiglass. Starting out with titles downloaded off the web, I ran into the same mini lettering problem with this as I did with my wooden drink mixer. The letter font in many titles just has too many very thin lines in them, which wouldn't carve no matter the depth that I chose. It also happened often in the "and the" portion of the titles because they were so much smaller than the rest. I finally did several titles that were giving me problems on my own in Publisher, Princess and the Frog for example, and used Segoe Semi Bold font for the main lettering. This has wider channels in the font, and therefore gives ipicture something better to work with. Final carving here was at z= .125, and came out pretty well. The only thing, and it came out ok, was the Aladdin title which is in the original font.....the "A" didn't cut as deep as I'd liked. Each piece took 19 hours (12 x 12 piece) to carve on low, and I carved it six times before getting it right.
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2016 2:41:37 GMT -8
Rick, I flipped your images around. I am figuring that after carving that many times that maybe you should get out that drink mixer device and experiment with it until (quote from the movie Cool Hand Luke)... "You get your mind right".
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2016 12:43:50 GMT -8
Lettering continues to be a problem for me, one that I basically got around by using WordArt in MS Publisher in a small font (18), then stretched the wording out to make each letter larger in the body. Each side of the finished product presented the same problem over and over, but I finally figured out a fix and got the job done. This is something I wanted for myself, and I've been working on it (off and on) since last October. We like our Sangria at our lake place, and we drink it by the pitcher from a special recipe that we have - you can't drive heavy machinery after one or two glasses with it's potency. What we have here is a mixer made in corian, with a glass tube in the middle. You fill each ingredient to the proper line, and when you reach the top the pitcher size drink is finished - great every time. Minimum cleanup, and it makes the creation of the second and third pitcher a night possible - even through blurry eyes.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2016 18:54:27 GMT -8
Those look really good, glad to see you get them done how you wanted.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2016 10:55:02 GMT -8
Played around a little with a test piece that didn't come out quite right, took some acrylic paint and painted blue into the lettering and lines. Then sanded the excess paint off and blew clean with an air hose. It really darkens up the letters to make them easier to read against the white marble like background. Now, after a few test pitchers of Sangria this weekend, I think I'll paint the one above and get that into a final format. I really like working with corian. I painted boldly into the lettering, then sanded with an orbital sander and blew the dust off. Got great results.
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