For my case I was simply milling and area down with the 1/8" endmill, set it up, watched it run for a few minutes, went back inside and later returned to the shop and the machine had shut down. It had run askew towards the ruled side of the table until it hit the limit switch on the x axis. Funny that it only happened then and not since, one time fluke maybe. Unless my whole electric panel experienced a voltage drop I can't attribute it to that because nothing else is run of that circuit. I always unplug the machine when vacuuming off, if I want to see how the carve is going I have a large brush I use as a duster, and use air to blow off fine dust.
Post by gullyfoyle on Apr 13, 2013 10:07:23 GMT -8
Today I went to Oliver and dld the most recent firmware from them. My previous version, from the dld and the last install, was just labeled FIRMWARE. Todays had FIRMWARE 1004. I had to relabel it to just FIRMWARE. In the machine settings the firmware always read 1004. And the .bin files are always the same size. If I could read hex code I'd compare the two. I updated to that, I used your rail adjustment, I re leveled and made sure the work surface had no wobble. I made a small carving at normal speed and it looked fine. I'm testing another at low, low gave me a line down the middle from the day I received the machine. If the most recent firmware fixes the problems I'll assume there was a bad install or bad firmware. If I have a line I'll assume it's the machine.
I'd like to purchase the Oliver 3d lathe, but I need more faith in Oliver than I have now.
Last Edit: Apr 13, 2013 10:09:36 GMT -8 by gullyfoyle
That is what mine said. I dld firmware in January, titled simply FIRMWARE.BIN. Oliver site said it was 1.004. I then downloaded it again and installed it thinking it was the updated discussed. I then rejiggered the machine and once again downloaded the firmware. This time it read FIRMWARE 1004.bin. I had to rename it to FIRMWARE.bin for it to install. I didn't screw with the HMI file. After installing that everything seems fine. On the first test cut I didn't have the line down the middle on low that I had from the beginning. I'm testing a second right now, then maybe a couple more just to be certain. Is the most recent an updated firmware? Was there a bad install or corrupted file from the beginning? Or was it hardware. If I don't see the line again I'll assume it was firmware related. My son just had to reinstall .NET framework because every few days his graphics would go wonky. Bad installs happen. Bad installs happen with mass produced products. So does bad hardware. The problem with either is they don't happen immediately, usually. Life is so much simpler with an out of the box failure. Try to download and install the firmware Oliver has up now. If that doesn't help you can rule out out firmware as the problem. It would be nice if Oliver actually had a presence in their own forum. If my problems reappear I have already reported to Tech support. They started well within the warranty period. I can cite the issues mentioned here if I need replacement hardware out of warranty. These are supposed to be robust machines. Bad software is easy to fix. Hardware failure has no excuse within such a short period of time.
I was screwing around with an image in Photoshop. The I-Picture preview showed just straight lines. I had saved the file as 16 bit grayscale not 8 bit. I'm not sure if that caused I-Picture to have a problem, or if it was another adjustment. First time it happened. But good to know in case I-Picture has an 8 bit limit for grayscale. While in Photoshop I checked out posterize. The slider allows easy and swift change of settings. The nice thing is it allows simple visual input to the grayscaling. You can see the layers well defined. Later I may carve a pic just to see how the layered stacked look is. Might be a cool effect.
So we have the same firmware, I had error 21 almost every cut when I first got mine but the manualsays to check the board plugs so I took the key pad off and wiggled each plug, I had a new car once and the computer plug had a bent prong took them a while to find it. The only time I get the error now is if I turn on the shop vac. Also cordless phones and cells all give off signals that might get picked up.
Post by gullyfoyle on Apr 14, 2013 13:03:41 GMT -8
I try to never screw with anything under warranty unless support specifically tells me too. Difference between out of your pocket and out of theirs. That's why they want you to check everything else before the hardware. Hardware is their problem and costs them, software is yours and costs you. Running through all the user related issues tends to run the warranty out, for those companies less consumer friendly.
Machine is screwed, ran a normal speed carve and ran off the wood into the clamp on the third line. Luckily I was there to hit the emergency stop. Oliver supplied image, border checked fine. The previous cuts, after rejiggering the machine to remove variables, had degrading quality of cuts on low. The amount of grooves increased dramatically.
It goes back for a new one or a refund, Brand new too, I reported problems from the very beginning. If that is bad as well, I expect a full refund.
Isn't board connections. Oliver tech support told me to clean and oil the screw drive. I did. Ran from x axis limit to x axis limit a couple of times to spread the oil. It cut the first few lines fine. Then it was like it hit a wall, slammed to a stop and ran back and right off the board. It was cedar, no knotholes, the width of the cut was more that the bit, and border tested fine. Just strange.
I ran this job which was 10.373 x 13.361 on a piece of Red Oak. The letters weren't "clean". "Vincent John" & the date "4-6-2013" were italicized but the rest of the letters were not. Notice the "chip out" on the bottom of the letters "R" & "n" in the next picture. In the 3rd picture, notice the close up of the letter "A" it isn't smooth along the sides at all.
Post #3 of 3 showing how jagged the letters are. Note the side of the letter "A".
Additionally, there was a slight cup in the Red Oak board. After the carve, it was alot more than a slight cup. I guessed I comprimised the structural integrity of the board by removing material which made it cup considerably more.
Basically you are going to have to learn how to do gradients on lettering, so that they have somewhat of a sloped edge which cuts down considerably on the tear outs. Try carving these letters on a scrap and see the difference (see attached) These were made from plain white letters with a gaussian blur applied.