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Post by Greg on Apr 15, 2014 9:16:38 GMT -8
Did you use your stain wipe method on the baby pic ? Yes, well it's actually a stain and sand method but you have to let it dry for about 24 hours before scuffing the highlights.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2014 11:33:51 GMT -8
What size boards are you cutting? I'm beginning to think that maybe some of my problem is that I've been using boards that are about 7" wide, maybe if I went to a larger size the picture would have a chance to express itself better.
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Post by Greg on Apr 15, 2014 15:49:55 GMT -8
The bigger the better but a lot more time to cut, that pic was about 7x9 I think. Also you can use I-picture to do these even though you can't see them by using a trick one of the guy's from Oliver told me about.
You increase the debt of cut to about .780 ,at that level you can really see the details but don't forget to set it back to .052 or whatever you like it to be before you make the gee code file.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2014 6:06:10 GMT -8
Greg: One other question, did you do any enhancing to the picture through software before cutting it? I'm going to try another one with a new picture of my granddaughter, and wondered if I should try lightening some of the face so that it pops a little more than the rest of the picture. I'm also going to try your stain and sand method again, my first attempt fizzled because I was too wimpy with the sanding and that particular picture didn't lend itself to the sanding tools.....hand sanding only.
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Post by Greg on Apr 27, 2014 2:26:54 GMT -8
No I did not mess with that pic because it was fine like it was but I ave done that, I normally try to get a pic with a dark back ground no grass and no shadows. Grass looks like a bumpy back ground and does not come out that great. Oh yeah I did convert it to grey scale before loading it. I use a light stain and you have to let it dry good because it will not scuff off, there are several video's on you tube that show this process. This video shows the exact process I use to do the pictures: www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIv8Wq-ywlI
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2014 12:14:33 GMT -8
Wow, that is a slow moving video. I skipped ahead to the wood finishing part and it is pretty good. I've got a 12 x 14 piece cutting now (probably 24 hours by the time it's finished). Couple of additional questions:
1. What grit sandpaper do you normally use? 2. Do you use a polyurethane finish afterwards, in the video commentary it says that that guy doesn't use any and I'm wondering if that would affect the final product - good or bad.
Thanks for your help, I'd like to see one of these pan out.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2014 15:46:34 GMT -8
Ok, got a pretty decent cutting by just changing the picture to grayscale, cropping, and then using ipicture to cut it at .075 depth. Low speed, 1/50th bit.....took 22.5 hours to carve a 12 x 15" piece. Pretty happy with the carving, though it would have been better if the picture had been a dead-on straight facial vs. having one side of the face slightly darker. Going to cut and stain tomorrow, then try sanding away to give it depth per the youtube video Greg posted. Greg, any insight on what would make a better picture to use than this one? Attachments:
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Post by Greg on Apr 28, 2014 22:13:45 GMT -8
s146.photobucket.com/user/gregs_photo/profile/That looks like a good cut, I use a ruff paper like 150 because I use oak if you use soft wood be careful not to take material off or you will dull the edges. I have put a clear coat on but you do that after you make the highlights and you have to use ultra clear poly.
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Post by Greg on Apr 28, 2014 22:14:38 GMT -8
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John
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Post by John on Apr 29, 2014 11:21:57 GMT -8
Hello everyone , here is a couple i have done with Olivenr Itellicarve 13", but i am not very good at taking photos lol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2014 14:31:16 GMT -8
John, don't I remember a post where you talked about buying the machine to make parts for your model ship building? You have a great eye for presentation, your use of borders around the subjects is exceptional.
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Post by gregory on Apr 29, 2014 17:21:22 GMT -8
Those a first class John
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2014 10:23:40 GMT -8
Here's the final results, for the first time I'm pretty happy with the end product when doing a portrait. I may do a little more sanding to bring out the face and legs/chest areas just a little more but overall Greg's stain and sand method appears to be the best solution to highlighting pictures. I would definitely try for a face on picture the next time, instead of having one side of the face slightly shaded. Attachments:
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John
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Post by John on May 1, 2014 3:15:08 GMT -8
@ Rick & Gregory thank you for your kind comments, @ Rick yes my main purpose of getting the machine was to incorporate a faster procedure to do the carvings on my line of 16-18 century ships of war unfortunately my dad passed away in June of last year and my heart has not been into finishing it yet so i decided to have some fun and learn some new procedures in design in other words just playing around lol, i have been playing around with a lot of software designing up some new methods of manipulating the picture to get the smoothest carve and in the process of putting together some software and i might even program a little fast app to convert into 3D greyscale with just one or two clicks and you are done, i have a lot more carvings done i will post when i get some time and @ Rick very nice i will have to try that i know some ways of staining i will try to see if you can pull the carving out of the wood and make it stand out even more i was playing around with it the other day, Love the machine
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John
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Post by John on May 1, 2014 12:52:10 GMT -8
Good evening, if you want a really clear stand out carving you need to convert your images to Pseudo Class Gray and keep your pixels in the high end around 5028 X 5028 ect, Resolution 44 DPI , i will put a sample here so you can see color range
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