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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2017 3:10:32 GMT -8
One other attribute of Lacquer is that each coating "melts" into the existing layers of lacquer, making it smooth and you don't end up with an "orange peel" finish.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2017 3:54:39 GMT -8
Here is 1 of 2 custom orders I am currently working on. Just went out to the shop and checked on the finish coats I put down last night. Everything is smooth with the exception of the areas with the arrows. Those I used the steel wool to knock them down, cleaned up and put on another coat of lacquer.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2017 10:09:22 GMT -8
Love your sprayer, I went looking for it on the internet and am amazed at what I could do with it for under $10. I realize that you do a lot of pieces at the same time, but how many do you think that you get out of each charge?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2017 12:22:47 GMT -8
Love your sprayer, I went looking for it on the internet and am amazed at what I could do with it for under $10. I realize that you do a lot of pieces at the same time, but how many do you think that you get out of each charge?
I was getting the upper part of the spray setup from Lowes but they no longer carry them. They were $3.97 at Lowes so I went to Sherwin Williams and asked for a deal on them, they sell them to me for $4.97 instead it the $ 7 something they normally charge. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2017 16:15:35 GMT -8
For my current 2 special orders I have not quite used one of them. I spray everything from 4 directions to get coverage on all of the detail edges. They also spray better when you do not tilt them anymore than a 45 degree angle while spraying. All total over time I have accumulated 6 complete kits with the lower bottles, so now all I need are the charged units.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 10:49:49 GMT -8
Thanks Bob, I see that they are about $5 at Home Depot for the entire kit, $4 for charge units. I'm going to have to try one at that price. Can you leave your lacquer in the bottle for a couple hours while the previous pass dries? Or is it spray and clean each time?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 19:15:05 GMT -8
You can leave the lacquer in the bottle, you might make sure to put the cap back on over the spray nozzle. Sometimes even that is not enough and the lacquer dries and clogs the nozzle. I have a jar of them sitting in lacquer thinner and I just swap the nozzle out when that happens.
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Post by FatPoppy on Jun 28, 2017 6:36:22 GMT -8
Bob,
I have been considering a air brush system for a while now, do you think that it would work, on the plaques, anywhere close to your Preval sprayer system using the lacquer?
FatPoppy
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Post by Deleted on Jun 28, 2017 18:12:58 GMT -8
Bob,
I have been considering a air brush system for a while now, do you think that it would work, on the plaques, anywhere close to your Preval sprayer system using the lacquer?
FatPoppy
I have thought about an airless sprayer which propels the spray by pressure only. Those type compress the actual finish you are using (2000-3000 psi) and force it through a tiny tip therefore they do not introduce air into the mix. Those type are somewhat pricy however. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2017 4:09:37 GMT -8
Bob, for a table top where you know people are going to be sitting drinks on it and food, would a lacquer do better than something like a marine spar varnish?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2017 19:25:13 GMT -8
Bob, for a table top where you know people are going to be sitting drinks on it and food, would a lacquer do better than something like a marine spar varnish? |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2017 16:55:07 GMT -8
Made a couch table for someone to give as a christmas gift, her son (avid Purdue) married a IU gal, so she wants one of each. I'm doing the PU one in walnut, so I'll be using walnut for the darker color whereas this was in cherry for the red IU tone. I've used Marine spar mostly on my projects for some time, haven't used any varnish yet so that is why I asked. I have been youtubing for walnut finishes, and it looks like tung oil coatings finished with the marine spar may be the way I'm going. I've never used walnut before, just kind of figured that it would finish with just varnish like cherry does (but I guess not).  Back of the table has the IU engraved with the 1013, but the pictures I have apparently are too large a file to download here. The lady just ordered the two based on this sample (IU & PU), and then ordered two for Notre Dame also. Now I just need to find some greenish wood, lol. |
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Post by ajtkrmc on Nov 26, 2017 19:20:10 GMT -8
...I am hoping to do some hydrofoil (underwater wing) experiments with a little duckboat I have, in the spring. I only played with direct G-code programming a bit on the 1013 when I first got it but recently found an aerodynamics program that gave me a X-Z coordinate file for different foil designs - and I wanted to avoid a lot of filing and sanding and fitting to templates - why not use the router?. What I had to do was play with the coordinate numbers to scale up to the desired size in millimeters (5 inch chord x 14inch long) and then since I planned to use the 1/8th endmill I made corrections for the fact that it edge cuts with the leading and trailing edges depending on slope of the cut, not like the 1/32 and 1/50th radius conical bits that cut on center. Then the most work was using formatting tools in Excel to replicate the points file many times over while incrementing the Y scan step (I used 0.10 scan step since the large 1/8th bit allows a fair bit of overlap - very fast work - first time using endmill). Additional preparatory opening & closing code lines were added, just like the commands that i-picture automatically inserts. Then I saved it as a text file (*.txt) which the 1013 will run. ...I actually have two programs, one for the top of the foil and one for the bottom of the file. The program is designed to cut a wingfoil section 14" long which I will run 3 times to produce a 42" long wing - which will then be covered with fiberglass and epoxy. Anyhow, the process is complicated and I made a lot of errors, taking about 6 hours to do what I could now replicate in 45 minutes:) ...Anyhow you will see a rough foam sample I cut to prove the programs, though it is about a quarter inch too thick, and I would set up for a more precise match of the top and bottom profiles when I do it for real. I may do the final work in foam or perhaps maple.  ...Andrew. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2017 15:04:48 GMT -8
Can't deny it, I'm impressed as hell! I wish I could do programming like this, my abilities for projects would jump dramatically. I'm too old, too lazy, and not smart enough.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2018 9:39:46 GMT -8
A custom designed plaque for a customer for their son's Christmas:
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