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Post by Deleted on May 29, 2017 17:33:21 GMT -8
Hope to hear how the show went. Northern Indiana got a couple short duration monsoons on Sunday......our lake water level is so high it's 4-6 inches above our dock. That of course is too high to put in the boat or jetskis, so everyone took off to go home and mow our jungles. Hopefully it will drop some this week so we can really start using the lake. I got my smores, so I was ok.
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2017 3:38:46 GMT -8
Out of the 3 days of the show, I had to skip Friday because of the finish drying issue so I lost out on that day. I did go down and set up my canopy and tables Fri morning anyway. Saturday had the dire prediction of severe T-storms with 60 mph wind gusts, but in the end we had one 20 minute absolute toad strangler just after I had re-packed all of my pieces at the end of the day (I take them all home each evening- 0 risk of theft or damage that way) Sunday forecast was for nearly all day rain so on Sat evening a lot of vendors chickened out and packed up, leaving the show venue a bit sparse. It turned out to be a nice day with no rain at all. In the end for me it turned out to be a decent show and sold quite a bit.
On another note, I made and donated a plaque to the charitable organization that puts on that particular event, The Pilot Club of Madison Indiana a chapter of Pilot International. Something to display at their meetings and events and they were absolutely thrilled.
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2017 4:21:47 GMT -8
I'm going to have to start doing more in Cherry, I love your final "look". I know what you mean about drying problems, I've been redoing the molding and trim in my sons house for the past six months, I do one room at a time and then take a few weeks off. This winter and spring the drying time on the stain and then varnish was about a night apiece. Then one day in May we had an 80 degree day with maybe 30 humidity. The stain dried about as fast as I could apply it, got the two coats of stain and one varnish all done in a day.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2017 19:39:33 GMT -8
And here comes the shameless plug...... heartlandwoodstudio.com
Testing the waters to see if that will work out.
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Post by ajtkrmc on Jun 12, 2017 8:48:24 GMT -8
Your web-site looks good. The lathe work is extremely attractive, and you appear to be almost giving them away considering the time you must put into them (unless you have a CNC lamination machine and a CNC woodlathe too). Andrew.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2017 7:04:55 GMT -8
Thanks, the only thing CNC is my plaques, Lathe work and glue ups are all hand work. I learned some time back that you cannot get enough money for your time spent making wood crafts, most others I have spoken with share the same view = we all work for pennys lol.
I did the website as an alternative to ETSY site which I was on for 4+ years until they decided to allow manufactured goods as well as handmade plus they changed their policies pertaining to payment processing which would require me giving them and a third party sensitive information that I was not going to comply with.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2017 6:39:04 GMT -8
Bob, what type of finish do you use....gloss, semi gloss, flat? Yours always looks so much better than mine. Think I need to spend a little more effort in this area.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2017 11:03:59 GMT -8
Rick, I am using semi gloss lacquer on all of the plaques, I think the gloss would be too shiny and detract from the design somewhat. I am going to experiment with some satin lacquer finish sometime and see how that turns out.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2017 17:20:40 GMT -8
Made another box for my new granddaughter (c section 2 pm tomorrow) out of the cherry wood I had left over from the ring box I made my daughter. I use a spray semi gloss lacquer, and the ends where the wood grain is exposed never really seems to "shine", I get the feeling the lacquer is soaking in even after a couple coats. Any suggestions? Or do I just need to add a couple more layers?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2017 17:54:12 GMT -8
Rick, Yes the end grain of wood takes considerably more to get a good finish. I just keep adding layers until it gets filled. You can in the future use some sanding sealer to seal up the end grain, apply let dry thoroughly, sand and re apply. The sanding sealer is very compatible with lacquer and has some solids in it to fill open wood grain.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2017 2:28:54 GMT -8
Is sanding sealer (I'm unfamiliar with it) wood specific, or can you use one type with all different kinds of wood?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2017 4:45:52 GMT -8
Sanding sealer is shellac based and is used on any type of wood. This is the best brand to use, it is available at Home Depot. I looked at Lowes but the only kind they have is water based which I have zero confidence in.
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Post by gregory on Jun 22, 2017 2:12:36 GMT -8
Bob when you sand these carvings, is it all done with sandpaper in hand only? they look like you poured wood into a mold, they are so smooth.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2017 2:50:27 GMT -8
Do you coat the entire piece, or just the end grain? Just want to make sure I'm getting this right. 1. Completely sand piece 2. add sealer 3. sand again lightly 4. Lacquer. Does that sound right?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2017 3:03:10 GMT -8
Bob when you sand these carvings, is it all done with sandpaper in hand only? they look like you poured wood into a mold, they are so smooth. For all my carves, once done I get them off the machine and vacuum them off. Then using a soft bristle brass brush I remove some of the fuzzy stuff (you must be gentle for small detail areas) after that I use sandpaper 320 or 400 grit on any of the flat areas. I have some carvers rifler files that I use on some of the detail areas to remove some of the fuzzies that you get from the bit along the edges of details. After all that I clean off the dust and use a tack rag to go over the piece.
I have an overhead dust filter that will filter fine dust from the air by circulation of the air volume in my shop, I run that for about 4 hrs.
Currently I am using Minwax brushing lacquer available in the 1 Qt can. Although it says on the can Do Not Spray, I thin it by about 10% with lacquer thinner and use a Preval sprayer to spray it. ***You must use an organic vapor respirator when spraying and until the air is clear of fumes*** I think the fumes is the reason the can says Do Not Spray on it.
I spray 1-2 medium coats of lacquer on the piece and let it dry for several hours, after that I take 0000 steel wool and rub any areas that are not smooth, and then I use a Rare Earth Magnet to remove any steel wool fibers and steel dust from the piece ( I wrap the magnet in a piece of paper towel to make it easy to remove the steel wool fiber from it ). The magnet is so strong that virtually any thing magnetic cannot resist it. Then it's dust removal again and a couple more coats of lacquer, same process again with steel wool after it dries if needed. Then 1-2 final coats.
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