Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2017 5:51:29 GMT -8
I change the default scan step on every project, no matter which bit I use. Anything that has any details go with the 1/50; for simple signs/lettering I go 1/32. The scan step is a personal preference, early on in using this machine I noted that using the default setting left me with little "lines" that were really able to be seen in areas cleared out to the deepest setting. They could be sanded out, but that was a hassle. By dropping the scan step to 0.0059 I eliminated the lines entirely, now my carved flat sections are exactly that.....no sanding required.
And honestly, the added time on a carving with the reduced scan step appears to be minimal....maybe an extra 10 minutes on a two hour carve.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2017 14:17:16 GMT -8
I have very few projects that come under the 2 hour or so range, most have to run in the 5-7 hr range at .2 MM scan step. I have looked from time to time at the size of the file after it has been converted and saved to the flash drive and if at .2 MM scan step the file is upwards of 16,000 KB or more then I do not change it. Going from a .2 MM scan step to a .1 MM scan step means the machine must make twice as many passes back and forth to complete the carve.
|
|
|
|
Post by FatPoppy on Apr 27, 2017 18:36:53 GMT -8
I have very few projects that come under the 2 hour or so range, most have to run in the 5-7 hr range at .2 MM scan step. I have looked from time to time at the size of the file after it has been converted and saved to the flash drive and if at .2 MM scan step the file is upwards of 16,000 KB or more then I do not change it. Going from a .2 MM scan step to a .1 MM scan step means the machine must make twice as many passes back and forth to complete the carve.
I am so glad that you posted this. About six months or a year ago you had posted something that I understood wrong. I thought that you had started changing the .2 to .15 so I started changing at that time to .15. I've been thinking these long carves were normal..... ten plus hours. Now that I've started using the low speed, really long. I'll be switching back to .2 now. I cut a sign a few days ago that was 5" X 18", took 13.5 hours. Thanks for getting me corrected.
FatPoppy
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2017 3:52:28 GMT -8
FatPoppy, On some smaller files I still sometimes do the .15 MM scan step just to get as smooth finish as possible but those typically are project files that are small and would not take that long to start with. I believe that doing the math a .15 MM scan step adds maybe 25 % more time to a carve.
If your carve advances 6.0 MM on the table movement at .2 MM scan step that requires 30 passes back and forth. At .15 MM scan step it would require 40 passes and at .1 MM scan step it requires 60 passes.
|
|
|
|
Post by FatPoppy on Apr 28, 2017 4:47:48 GMT -8
I change the default scan step on every project, no matter which bit I use. Anything that has any details go with the 1/50; for simple signs/lettering I go 1/32. The scan step is a personal preference, early on in using this machine I noted that using the default setting left me with little "lines" that were really able to be seen in areas cleared out to the deepest setting. They could be sanded out, but that was a hassle. By dropping the scan step to 0.0059 I eliminated the lines entirely, now my carved flat sections are exactly that.....no sanding required. And honestly, the added time on a carving with the reduced scan step appears to be minimal....maybe an extra 10 minutes on a two hour carve.
You and Bob are so helpful to this forum and put it on a level that we can understand. Thanks for taking the time.
FatPoppy |
|
|
|
Post by jgstang on May 12, 2017 22:16:42 GMT -8
i have an interesting question for you guys.... when the usb is in the machine and all settings are done and all #s there just before the carving, my question is if i used those #s on a differant full size cnc machine and when the 1013 is carving the project 13x18 if i wanted that same carving 5 times bigger useing the bigger cnc if i took each # from xy and say x was 1000 and did 5X1000 to make it 5000 would the carving be 5 X bigger ? i know i'm making this confusing.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 13, 2017 2:17:49 GMT -8
The numbers I think you are referring to on the screen just before carving are simply origin locations and do not have anything to do with the actual size of the carve. When you set the dimensions of a carve in I-Picture, the program generates G codes for the movement of all the axis (X, Y and Z) that will cover the dimensions you have set, and based upon the surface (Up and Down) Z movements. That G code file is only enough code to carve the dimensions set in I-Picture.
The origin point is set in I-Picture ( I always use the center point ) and when you jog the machine to the center of your workpiece ( If that is what you set in I-Picture ) there will be a set of numbers which displays the location of all of the axis at that location. After you select enter 2 times it zeros out those numbers which in turn tells the machine that the position it is in, is the origin point.
|
|
|
|
Post by jgstang on May 21, 2017 15:15:43 GMT -8
its me again... 2 questions, 1- i think my x axis is going out, its seems just ok on slow but on med it jumps and is making noise, part# and where to buy ? 2- just reading about cut2d software, does this alow the machine to cut normal cnc way instead of just side to side and is it easy to use like ipicture ? i'll pop the cover off just to make sure its not loose or something.. thanks
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 21, 2017 17:19:24 GMT -8
I'll let Bob answer this, he had to replace a piece on his x axis I believe and maybe this will sound similar to him. Have you ever taken off the blue cover of the x spindle and lubricated it? I do that once or twice a year after having some problems with noise beginning. It solved my problem.
Bob also can answer the cut2d question I believe. I know that you need to get a piece of software - post processor I believe it's called - and it gets more complicated than just running ipicture.
|
|
|
|
Post by jgstang on May 21, 2017 19:44:16 GMT -8
no i have not pulled the cover off yet, i guess that would be a good starting place so i will do that. that would be cool if that cut2d works like that, whats a few bucks when your having fun! i did buy a new 1/50 bit from amazon but can't find the 1/32 ? is there a proper name/# for it. thanks
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 22, 2017 3:32:01 GMT -8
First place to start would be as Rick suggested to clean any dust and grime that has accumulated on the X axis lead screw. On that lead screw there is a white colored plastic anti backlash coupler that connects the X axis to the spindle motor plate. The anti backlash coupler has a pre-set spring load and I would not disassemble it, or it will take many trial and error attempts to get back to that pre-set load ( Been there-Done that ). The purpose of that anti backlash coupler is to compensate for the fact that when the lead screw is running the spindle motor plate back and forth, that there is a slight difference in the load as the lead screw runs back and forth, at one point going towards the control panel the screw is pushing and when going back the other direction it is pulling. That creates the back lash tension on the screw and the anti backlash coupler compensates for that. I don't believe that it is likely to be worn out on your machine since I and others are still running with the original. When you are cleaning that area you might try to put some rags down on the table and spray WD-40 on the coupler while running the X axis back and forth ( You can run it back and forth by using an allen wrench to turn the lead screw by hand ) , use the little tube that comes with WD-40 and spray a lot right at the edge of the anti backlash coupler and it should clean it out.
I once thought mine was worn out and called Oliver for the part and was quoted something like $ 300 to replace the lead screw and anti backlash coupler ( sold as one assembly ) If Iconic would have one I don't know.
Any program such as Cut 2D has to first create a g-code file that is ran thru I-Picture and you would have to get a post processor from the company that you bought the program from. The post processor creates the g-code file in a way that I-Picture can recognize it, since every brand of machine has its own method of running g-code files. As long as the post processor is correct it will run the machine, but the file still has to be ran thru I-Picture since that is the way the machine is programmed.
The biggest problem about running the machine in any other mode other than the back and forth ( known as "raster" mode ) is the fact that the Y axis that moves the table is gear driven instead of a lead screw and was not really designed to take the rapid changes in direction that come with running in any mode other that the "raster" back and forth mode. That I believe would cause a failure of the gear rack at some point.
In the end the 1013 was designed so that hobbyist people could run the machine without having to learn a bunch of cnc and cad design programs, trying to make the machine run like a $5000 and up machine will work to some degree, but one could expect to have more failures both mechanically and in programming than it is worth.
|
|
|
|
Post by jgstang on May 22, 2017 8:48:04 GMT -8
Bob, all i gotta say is you explain things so very good in detail thank you for that! rick also, you guys are great.. i think i will leave my machine just the way it is, when things are going good just leave it be!! i ordered the 1/50 bit and set it to 0.0059 and what detail like the grill of the car, but holly crap it took a long time to finish.. i started my carve @ 4pm on low, i was outside with a flash light @ 1am turning it off when it finished with the project 6.5 X 15.5 but it turned out nice. now i need to order a few new 1/32 and amazon does not list it like that so i'll figure this out now... thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by jgstang on May 22, 2017 9:16:27 GMT -8
whats the differance between the 1/50 and the 0.5 my last carve i used 1/50 in the selection for a 0.5 bit i think ? is that why it took forever ? i looked at ipicture and it does not list 1/50 only 0.5 thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by FatPoppy on May 22, 2017 13:08:02 GMT -8
Bob, all i gotta say is you explain things so very good in detail thank you for that! rick also, you guys are great.. i think i will leave my machine just the way it is, when things are going good just leave it be!! i ordered the 1/50 bit and set it to 0.0059 and what detail like the grill of the car, but holly crap it took a long time to finish.. i started my carve @ 4pm on low, i was outside with a flash light @ 1am turning it off when it finished with the project 6.5 X 15.5 but it turned out nice. now i need to order a few new 1/32 and amazon does not list it like that so i'll figure this out now... thanks
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMJKIBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The last time I ordered them from amazon they were out and shipped them from China.........took three weeks and they were about $16.something each.
FatPoppy
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 22, 2017 18:40:27 GMT -8
Here is picture of the I-Picture screen with the drop down menu for bit selections: R 0.5 mm bit is equal to 0.019685 inches Rounded up, that would be 1/50th of an inch
R 0.8 mm bit is equal to 0.0315961 inches Rounded up that would be 1/32"
1/50 " bit is equal to .508 mm Very close to the R 0.5
1/32" bit is equal to .79375 mm Very close to the R 0.8
The difference between R 0.5 mm bit and 1/50 is very minimal and like wise for the R 0.8 bit compared to the 1/32"
|
|
