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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2017 4:03:12 GMT -8
You can just call Iconic CNC, their number is on their website. When you do, you need to specify that you need a spindle motor for your model of carver. The X, Y and Z motors are stepper motors that drive those directions of movement.
The replacement is straight forward, just remove the cover from the spindle motor, then remove the 4 screws that hold the spindle motor and carefully unplug the connectors. The two connectors are made differently so there is no way to hook them up wrong, just pay attention to the clip style of each. You will have to have the collet nut removed to get the motor out as well. Reverse to install, but make sure you do not over tighten the screws, they need to be tight but you are using steel screws in aluminum threads so too much will strip them out.
Gimp should be a simple download from GIMP.org They have specific downloads for Windows and should be an EXE file or they also have an installer file on their website.
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Post by jgstang on Apr 8, 2017 14:51:54 GMT -8
ok perfect! i'll order a spindle motor. in your opinion what witch is the bast overall wood for signs ? i've tried pine and its ok, just tried poplar and its better and also tried burch witch seems to be a really hard wood.. also is there a special hardened bit i should be useing for harder vrs softer wood or is the one i have that came with the cnc good enough ? thanks again!!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2017 16:55:30 GMT -8
There is a segment under Troubleshooting that is called "Replacing a Spindle Motor", its from back when I had to replace mine. Pictures should pretty much explain it to you as to how easy it really is. If you are doing the plunge cuts we discussed above, that could cause this motor to fail. When I got my machine, I was doing plunges down to about .33.......I blame myself for ruining that motor.
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Post by jgstang on Apr 8, 2017 19:07:48 GMT -8
after looking at your post on the spingle motor i don't think thats my issue, the router works fine and does not stop or slip that i know of... its the router going left and right or the (X) only is when it shakes, the y and z seem fine. i might order the spindle motor anyways just incase to have it but the going left and going right is when it like does not go smooth... although when i do the border its smooth ?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2017 2:27:29 GMT -8
The best wood for carving are Maple, Oak and Cherry. Those woods are hard enough for the machine to carve without having a bunch of fuzzy stuff on the surface of the finished carve. You can expect to get 10-15 good carves from a new bit, after that the quality begins to degrade because of wear on the bit. I long ago quit trying to use the softer woods (pine and poplar) because of the fuzz on the surfaces which is really difficult to sand between the details in the carvings. If your machine only shakes and shudders when it is carving and not when it is running the border function, then it is likely that either your spindle motor is not running at the correct RPM because it is failing or your bit is very dull. You could also remove the long metal cover which is covering the "X" axis lead screw and check for accumulation of dust. I clean mine of periodically and lube it with WD-40 or silicone spray. I have gone to using exclusively the 1/50" bit for my machine, these can be purchased at Amazon for about half the cost of purchasing elsewhere. Here is the link to that bit: 1/50" Bit
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Post by FatPoppy on Apr 9, 2017 4:59:48 GMT -8
after looking at your post on the spingle motor i don't think thats my issue, the router works fine and does not stop or slip that i know of... its the router going left and right or the (X) only is when it shakes, the y and z seem fine. i might order the spindle motor anyways just incase to have it but the going left and going right is when it like does not go smooth... although when i do the border its smooth ? Attached are pictures from a few months ago when I removed my spindle motor trying to find why I was getting "grinding, vibration" when I was cutting side to side (x). The lower housing, where you lock the shaft, of the motor is removed. I replaced the bearing and put it back together and it is still usable, just "grinding and vibrates". I do now have a new replacement motor on order for when it does go down. FatPoppy
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Post by jgstang on Apr 9, 2017 11:19:59 GMT -8
maybe i got lucky because right now i desided to carve a spiece of burch on low speed and changed the depth from 0.118 to 0.110 and its cutting good and smoothly.. just contacted a guy that has the acc option tool and the 1013 that he might want to unload! maybe i'll have 2 going at a time.. but so far so good on this differant setting. i checked behind the metal cover and elsewhere and this machine looks like new
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2017 16:36:09 GMT -8
For quite some time I had always carved most of my stuff at the depth of .236" , but over time I realized that the extra depth of cut was not translating into a more raised relief carve. Currently most everything I carve is in the .157" to .177" depth. I think it is a little easier on the machine motor and gives me about the same result as far as the amount of relief in the carve.
Down the road sometime here I am going to get a different spindle motor which can run at 20-25,000 rpm and with a lot more power than our current motor. The one I am looking at is a Variable frequency drive motor which uses an inverter to power the motor and control the motor speed. The motor runs independently of the machine and has the drawback of not shutting itself off when done, which can be overcome by adding a shut off switch that will trip the machine power off when it returns to home position at the end of the carve. These set ups would run somewhere in the neighborhood of about $ 500 but they would be less likely to fail, probably on a 10 to 1 scale over the current spindle motor. You also would have to open your Gcode file and edit it each time you do a conversion in I-Picture, but the only edit that is needed is to delete the command line that tells the spindle motor to turn on, because the motor would be running from a separate power source. So in the end if the stepper motor drives that run the X, Y and Z axis continue to work properly the machine would become more reliable and quite possibly could run in the fast mode, to speed up the carves. The spindle motor problem with the 1013 is I think the number one reason that they were discontinued, the motor was just not sufficient for the machine. I have already done the retrofit bracket to hold such a motor, so it will be easy to mount it up to the Z plate which currently holds the bracket and motor for the machine.
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Post by jgstang on Apr 9, 2017 19:46:12 GMT -8
that sounds like it would be good! i'm making my daughter a packers sign and there is alot to it i guess because i started it @ 3.30pm went to take care of dad and returned home 8pm and its only 50% done! also on slow speed so its not fast but looks pretty good... i'm kinda shocked they haven't come out with a beefyer motor.
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Post by jgstang on Apr 10, 2017 8:31:06 GMT -8
well crap, i did something really stupid since its was taking so long to carve lastnight like 8 hrs, so i put a sheet over the entire machine and it covered good to protect it from moisture and watched it for a few with 90% to do witch is about another 2hrs... went to bed and the sheet some how got into the bit and stopped the progress! error.. the sheet just pulled off easy so it barley got the bit so i tried to reset but oh no that would be too easy. i own it, i did it!! so am i done or can i do something to recover the last 10% ? i just turned it off, tried a couple things but nothing... when i do the manuel jog the X shows #s but i can;t get it to contenue from there .. thanks. boy a dumb thing to do @ 11.30 pm
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2017 19:14:34 GMT -8
Whenever the machine is stopped and shutdown completely there is no way to recover the portion that did not carve. The only method there is, is to write down the X, Y and Z co-ordinates after you jog the machine to it's starting position for the carve and before you hit the button which zeros them out. You could then go back to the original co-ordinates you wrote down and start the carve again, and you would be theoretically carving "air" for the portion that had already carved before the shutdown. This method is a hit and miss method, meaning that you don't always get a great result. For your current carve, nope there is no way at all to recover...best to try again.
I never run my machine when there might be a possibility of storms or any other chance of power failures for that reason.
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Post by jgstang on Apr 10, 2017 20:27:31 GMT -8
that is good to know. so i was done then because when that happened and the error came up i couldn't see any #s anyways... thanks
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Post by jgstang on Apr 11, 2017 17:13:32 GMT -8
yes another question... for this carving i did the 0.109 my scan step default is 0.007874 depth 0.109 and the carving letters turned out like this.... should i have gone with the 0.118 ? instaed of the default above ? thanks
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2017 18:52:06 GMT -8
You need a photo editing program of some kind to allow you to add some gaussian blur to the lettering, which has the effect of a more gentle curve to the edges of you letters instead of straight up and down. Here is the word BLUR done two ways, first one is without any gaussian blur done which results in the straight up and down edges on the letters. The second one is the same word with gaussian blur applied which gives you those more rounded edges on the letters.
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Post by jgstang on Apr 11, 2017 20:47:08 GMT -8
of course, i forgot about the dang blur thing!! so the #s are fine.. thanks
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