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Post by theusual11 on Mar 4, 2016 14:25:13 GMT -8
Hello, I was carving one day and it just got a lot louder. Ran 1 more pass and just shut it down. Can anyone tell me if this line is supposed to be there or is it grinding on something. Just wanna get back running smooth. Thanks Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2016 5:56:31 GMT -8
Hello, I was carving one day and it just got a lot louder. Ran 1 more pass and just shut it down. Can anyone tell me if this line is supposed to be there or is it grinding on something. Just wanna get back running smooth. Thanks It looks like a lot of wear is occurring in the area where the motor shaft sits in the bearing, it could be a bad bearing. Also what kind of material are you cutting and what speed? There are a lot of variables, but if you are making deep and long plunge cuts at high speed, you are putting a lot of stress on the motor and the bearing. I believe Rick had a post on here long ago when his spindle motor went bad, and he was having similar symptoms. Here is a copy of Rick's old post: Recently I've had troubles with my spindle motor, which was slowing down and sometimes coming to a complete stop midway through cuts. After checking for loose connections and visiting the inner workings of much of the electronics to make sure the connections were good there, Oliver warranted the spindle motor and I just opened up that part of the machine for the first time (I've been running the 1013 for exactly a year now, few problems). It's nice having the new motor, it also solved my problem with being unable to use the red pushpin shaft lock when changing pins. I replaced it, and it's working through it's first project without a hickup so far. For those of you who have yet to visit this part of your machine, I thought I'd post a few pictures of what you have in there. Also I'm posting a couple of shots of where the shaft goes through it's bearing, and what the old shaft looked like when it came out. It had some old lube on it, I've cleaned and re-lubed this during the reassembly but I thought maybe some of you with more troubleshooting experience can tell me if what you see on the shaft could have caused the problems I experienced - quick slowdown of bit turning, and sometimes even a couple stoppage and the symptoms got progressively worse. Read more: olivermachinery.boards.net/search/results?captcha_id=captcha_search&what_at_least_one=spindle+motor&who_only_made_by=0&display_as=0&search=Search#ixzz422MsWxbp |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 18:06:26 GMT -8
Your problems sound very similar to what I had, and even the picture looks familiar. My spindle motor was replaced, and now a couple years later I'm all good for all that time. I think there were two problems with mine: 1. The collet had slipped down and was rubbing on the bearing, this meant that I couldn't use the red push pin to hold the collet still while replacing bits. In later models the 1013 switched to a set screw in the collet instead of the pressed on version, and reported problems have dropped substantially. 2. Back then I was doing a lot of "plunge cutting" where the depth was set pretty deep (as much as .33"). Imagine that trying to dig down to 1/3" and then press through the wood all the way across on the first cut. This bearing is actually an overhung load adapter that is intended to extend the shaft surface and absorb sideloading - like that I was inducing with my cutting style.
There are two things that I have changed thanks to input from Bob over the past couple years: A. Always put a white border around your piece. Don't know why but this seems to give the machine a starting z depth reference point and the cuts are more accurate. B. I always use gausian blur on my carving pictures, this gives you rounded corners so that the machine slowly works it's way down to the deepest setting rather than plunging to that depth right away. For most applications, a blur of 1.5 is more than enough, if you like really rounded curves you can go higher but I don't think I've ever been above 6.0.
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