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Inlays
Dec 31, 2015 18:06:56 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2015 18:06:56 GMT -8
I have an idea to use some corian to make an insert/inlay onto a table top. My thought pattern, weak though it be, is that if I do a cut through with the corian with minimal blur, that will give me a final piece with a slightly angled edge. Then I cut the same pattern down into the table top. Taking the corian, turning it upside down, I'm thinking the piece should slide right into the hole and give me a flat insert.
Does anyone see what I'm talking about, and does anyone know if this will work - or have I had too much eggnog?
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Jan 2, 2016 12:24:17 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2016 12:24:17 GMT -8
Ok, it doesn't appear to work as easily as I thought it might. There are three pictures below, the white corian IU piece I did as a cut through, the oak wood that was carved into, and how the corian piece rests into the wood when it is turned upside down. This is a 1/4" thick corian piece, and I used a .255 z setting for the cut through and for the oak piece. About 1/8" of the corian is sitting above the wood when the two are combined. I'm open to any suggestions on how to match up the wood with the corian better. I've tried increasing the x dimension just slightly to open up the recessed carving more - too much and it doesn't fit the pattern and too little and it still doesn't match up. I'm thinking something like this can be used as a starting point to combine with a dremel router to make it fit ......... but I'm still not sure in my mind why the two pieces don't just mesh.    |
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Jan 9, 2016 15:31:59 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2016 15:31:59 GMT -8
Didn't get any suggestions, so I went ahead and carved the recess the old fashion way. Took the piece, outlined it on the wood, and then chiseled it out. First time I've ever done this, but the end result came out pretty decently for a first attempt. If anyone has any clue why my original idea didn't work, I'd sure appreciate hearing.....it's driving me nuts. Attachments:
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Jan 11, 2016 3:39:52 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2016 3:39:52 GMT -8
It seems to me that it would work if you carved the recess identical to the inlay, although the recess would need to be slightly deeper to allow for glue up. Did you first carve the recess image , then invert the same exact image for the inlay carve? The big key for the inlay is that the angles on your inlay piece would have to match your angles in the recess exactly, any variance would cause the raised effect on your inlay. A curious experiment would be to see if a blurred bevel edge is the same angle when done in I-Picture, one cut into wood and another cut inverted, that is to see if the software "sees" the blurred edge as the same angle in both cases which could be the problem.
Other issues could be with the color coding to get pure black and pure white, in GIMP pure black is FFFFFF and pure white is F000000. I think I read that photoshop uses a different coding system than GIMP which uses HTML coding.
And last I have seen CNC done inlay techniques where your inlay is in fact raised above the wood and the excess is sanded off.
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Jan 12, 2016 16:34:35 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2016 16:34:35 GMT -8
Bob, I carved the two pieces exactly the same, with the same x,y,z dimensions. The only difference was that in ipicture I inverted one and not the other. I felt that the angle of the cut (blur effect) appeared to be exactly the same, but the corian piece was just a little bigger. When I took the corian inlay and turned it right side up again (as cut), and laid it on the wood that was carved into, the very edge of the corian was just a little larger than the opening.
One thing I wonder about is the z dimension that I used, it was .25" corian and I carved it at .255 which left a tiny little amount of corian to push out. Then I sanded the very edge which was sharp. I'm thinking if I do another one I need to increase the z dimension so I get a full cut through without any any leftover - that might give me a better overall angle between the two pieces.
If I'd been doing the inlay in wood, I agree that the sanding method would work because the angle inside that was engaged between the two pieces seemed rock solid. A little glue and sanding and I think I'd of had an inlay that looked great without any separation between the two pieces. That may be my next project, it would be tough to stain the table though, and then sand down the inlay without affecting the stained part. But I guess I could sand down the inlay in place, remove it, and then stain the table top. Excuse me, I'm prattling on to myself thinking of how to do this. lol
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Inlays
Jan 12, 2016 22:38:51 GMT -8
Post by newbie on Jan 12, 2016 22:38:51 GMT -8
One of the posts on Icarver said he got a 1.1 Mm. bit off Ebay and does his inlays with it. Puts it in as 1 Mm. this carves the recess slightly bigger and the inlay slightly smaller. He also sad it was an 1/8 inch bit and had to change the collet. It also means he has a 1015
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Jan 13, 2016 11:47:19 GMT -8
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2016 11:47:19 GMT -8
Went over there and looked at his post........interesting enough he's using an end mill bit vs. the conical bit I was using. I have never used the end mill bits, always been nervous about that very first plunge into the wood. Has anyone used the end mill bit, and do you have any suggestions for my first try at inlays with it?
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