|
Post by max22258 on Oct 26, 2015 10:20:40 GMT -8
Good afternoon, Is there anyone getting the quality carving like the horse in this video. I cannot acheive this by far. Try the depth as shown and approx size, I need to do a lot of finishing after the fact which is not what is shown in this video. Finishing and sanding should not be so bad (if you go with the video quality) www.youtube.com/watch?v=OX_Pw8XPYMs
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2015 17:52:18 GMT -8
Anything that requires deep cuts are probably not going to come out as well as the video shows. The experience of many on here is basically that the 1013 cannot do a two pass cut without having some problems in the final project. The second pass just never seems to line up perfectly with the first pass. Most of the time, a cut of .25" or 6 mm on one pass is going to be the maximum, and on the deeper cuts I'd recommend using the slower speed (low) so that the sideload on the shaft while it's cutting (especially at the beginning) is minimized.
Also some people on here, myself included, always insure that there is a white border around the picture you're cutting. It doesn't have to be wide, but it appears to allow the machine to set the "zero" depth better and the results - for me anyway - are much better. You can always trip the excess board off later if desired.
As I mentioned in my other post, I also reduce my scan step from .2 mm default to .15 which apparently makes the final product a little bit closer to what you see in the video. I do end up doing some minor sanding to just about every project, but with a little effort in your picture design (using blur for example and smoothing out lines within the picture) the machine does a pretty good job of what I want it to do. Obviously sharp bits help also, expect to get about 20 - 25 decent size projects cut per bit.....duller bits will continue to cut out the project but you'll end up with a lot of fuzzies.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2015 4:46:28 GMT -8
Wrote out a reply, and forgot to post it. Here goes again:
Thought of two more things to think about:
1. Type of wood. Hard Woods (oak, hard maple) typically will produce a better result than soft woods (pine, aspen, soft maple). I believe it's because the hard woods "chip off" the tiny pieces easier and leave you with a better finish.
2. Direction of cut. The x axis should always be against the grain. Going with the grain allows the wood to curl rather than chip off. While you'll end up with a cut piece, the sanding may be more extensive to give you the smooth surface you desire.
Didn't watch the video again, but I remember it having an impact on me when I originally was looking to buy a machine. Every project, in my experience, will require some sanding and finishing (I use my dremel also) to get the smooth finish we all want. Some projects can be "finished" by simply using steel wool (per Bob's excellent suggestion) in place of sand paper, it gets into grooves easier and will take out the fuzzy parts. Do make sure you either blow the piece clean or use a magnet to get the residue before varnishing. I've also found that I tend to be critical of the piece prior to staining and varnishing, and then thrilled with it afterwards. Using a good pre-stain conditioner and oil stain tends to give you the smooth finish. As the "artist", I am much more critical of what the project looks like - but then I'm staring at it from six inches when it's designed to be hung on a wall and viewed from 3 feet or more. My daughter constantly is telling me to lighten up, and sometimes I even listen.
|
|
|
Post by max22258 on Oct 28, 2015 8:11:15 GMT -8
Well I am at this looking at my option,thenoise this machine make comparing to other suggest there is some type of induced vibration either from the bearing or the x axis. I talked with the Oliver rep and he suggested to verify the screw holding the x axis screw type drive. I actually believe it is the motor and bearing that is causing all my quality problem. And you mentioned that the results in hard wood should be better, but for me it is worst. I am using low and a very small cutting depth, no more than 1/8 but have tried 3/32 approx and lower with always the same results. Where I need to pass hours to refinish the carving. I used a dremels and a very small sanding wheels that works like a charm. I wonder if I would be better with a better machine.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2015 9:43:57 GMT -8
I'd talk with the rep again - Nick is good to work with, as is Judy - especially since the machines under warranty. You don't want to open up the machine and void the warranty without getting approval first. Then I'd take the cover off the spindle motor and check the screws holding the motor in place to make sure they aren't loose. It's fairly easy to lift out the motor if you get that far, and inspect it for unusual wear. Be careful to look at everything before wiping it clean, mine had almost burnt marks on top the bearing, I think my collett slipped down and was causing unusual wear during sideloading.
The bearing actually is a overhung side load bearing, it really doesn't do anything but help negate the side loading on the motor shaft that occurs as the bit cuts through the x axis. It's possible it's not seated correctly, but otherwise should have no impact. With the shallow cuts you describe and the excessive vibration, it seems like something is out of alignment with the motor or loose.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2015 5:05:36 GMT -8
Max, here is a photo of a recent project of mine, carved in wood with a z = .24". The project is about 10" square. This is as it came off the machine after I vacuumed off the chips/dust. Don't pay attention to the background inside the circle, I used a hay bale as a background for that down on the farm look. As you can see, a minimal amount of light sanding and I was ready to finish. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by max22258 on Nov 13, 2015 14:05:22 GMT -8
I have replaced the machine and now it is working properly. The second and third pass if needed works fine with this one and it is very quiet. I do look at the results at about 6 inches and with a magnifier. Reason is that it is easy to spot the problems area and then fix them. As far as software I have tried most of them for CNC machine, they are great software for line tracing and generating the Gcode that my software cannot even load. Other then that seems like the best software to use is Photoshop for line tracing. For 3 D we are looking a various way to modified a picture taken to a 3d grayscale picture that can be used with this machine. We are close but need more works on this.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2015 14:21:10 GMT -8
I've actually never tried a two pass, I think I'll put that on my list of things to do this winter when I'm bored with retirement. All my work from picture to grayscale cutting images is done in a combination of Publisher and Photoshop. I've never really had lessons in either, and probably there is an easier way to do it than I do, but it works. And whatever I come up with always runs through ipicture to convert and then cut.
|
|
|
Post by max22258 on Nov 14, 2015 11:42:28 GMT -8
It seems I talked way too fast I tried reducing the scan like you guys suggested but here are the result. I numbered the tried 1. This was set at .15 mm scan instead of .2 mm 1/50 tool with a white frame around. As soon I started the machine It worked fine until getting off the frame to start carving the image. I was set at a depth of .125 for 2 pass but did not even go thru the first pass started drifting on the +X side. Low speed !!!! 2. Kept the same file, selected normal speed start drifting again but at a less acute angle. 3. This was the first start but with scan step at default, same tools, no frame. Low speed pass at a depth of 0.125, drifted very slowly to the +X. 4. one pass at .125 depth, default scan, same tools, no frame, this is the normal quality I get with this machine. after brushing it off with a dremel it is a little better. This is the second machine I get, the first one was worst. There is a quality problem with this machine comparing to the pilot pro which is a little bit more expensive but can do quality work without passing many hours refinishing the work coming out of this machine.
|
|
|
Post by newbie on Nov 14, 2015 14:49:26 GMT -8
Check the rails the router slides on for alignment. I had the same problem, but the creaping was worst with increase in speed. It was as if the spacing was out and as the router moved to the left it would bind. I loosened the rails, checked distance to table, tightened bottom rail and moved router as I tightened top rail. I had already cleaned and lubricated the rails before I did the alignment, but it would still bind.
|
|
|
Post by max22258 on Nov 21, 2015 16:01:41 GMT -8
I checked the rail and they are fine well aligned, I am getting a third machine, having some bad luck I would guest. For getting a good quality carving it is just bigger is better!!!!
|
|