My 1013 is only about 1 month old. When the X+ Axis limit switch is activated, there is still about 1/4 of an inch that the bit would need to move to the left before it would reach the edge of the workpiece. I followed the instructions on Page 34 & 35 of the manual so it homes right up to the limit switch before the switch is activated.
Can the limit switch itself be moved over to the left?
Irestore: Mine is set up the same way, I think that is to make sure that you never hit that rail on the side of the table. Say if you were using the 1/8" bit that would put you within 1/8" of that side rail. I generally work around that by not cutting the wood workpiece to final dimensions until after the piece is carved.
On the lubrication I only periodically shoot a little silicone lube on the linear rails and use some grease similar to bearing grease on the bottom of the table gear rack after cleaning off the old stuff. In talking to Oliver I was told there is not a need to lube the linear rails, but I figure a little silicone helps some. Too much lube will cause dust to cling to the rails.
Irestore, the gear rack on the bottom is the only thing I use grease on....the x and z axis rails I would only use lightly applied silicone spray. Using any kind of heavy lube on the x or z will cause dust from carving to accumulate on the rails which in itself would cause more problems than no lube at all.
I would agree with Bob on avoiding much grease on the two side rails, I had an instance where the sawdust accumulated under one rail and the table itself appeared to be warped. I took the table off, cleaned it well, put it back together (no grease) and have never had another problem. I have a feeling that the table was loose prior to the problem, and that allowed the dust in.
Interesting, this is a replacement unit, the original unit didn't have any grease on the 2 bottom platform rails but the replacement unit did. You are right about the sawdust accumulating there. Do you know how to "reset" the "Home" position? I have to manually move it over to the X+ limit switch. I read the instructions and I can move my Z+ (.17") up & my X- (.25") axis over & then select "Enter" to "set ORG" which zeros them out, but it doesn't save it as the default location for "Home". I move them over to just touch the limit switch, not engage it or even put pressure on it, just to touch it.
Never gotten that far into the settings, mine always goes to home and since i start on the center of the piece it never made any difference to me where home was. I ALWAYS do a border check prior to processing a cut, that has saved me a couple of times. I just had to order a new motherboard this morning for my 1013, the USB port broke (little black plastic piece inside it) and so I won't be doing anything for a couple of weeks while awaiting getting that installed. At $295, it's not something that I wanted to do but this is scrap metal without it. I'll post pictures on replacing a motherboard on here once I get everything set up. The USB port is just a 90 degree metal piece that is soldered onto a motherboard, so I'll take the old board over to a computer repair place in town and see if they can install a new one or some sort of replacement that I can work with. Then I'll either have a spare or can sell this one as "reconditioned"......lol.
Rick, ditto on the border check and center origin. When I run the border check, if the x and y do not head to the corner in the same motion and return to center origin from the same corner in x and y motion, I re-run it until it does. I have found that when the border check starts by going in the x or the y direction singly that there end up being problems with the carve. Maybe a shorter description would be that when the border check runs in either the x or y direction singly, it ends up covering some of the border area twice which I consider an error. Here is my preferred path....
Electronics::: You have had some bad luck there, first a motor and now your motherboard, and I have had a motor replacement as well. Seems no one who makes anything wants to build longevity in to their products anymore. In some cases (autos for one) you are to spend thousands of dollars on a product which is of course promoted as the best thing since sliced bread, but has no real warranty. Every thing electronic is at best 1 yr.
The spindle motor I think may have been a combination of bad mfg and some bad carvings - I think what happened was that the collet dropped down on the shaft (bad mfg) and that put an unusual sideload on the motor on cuts of 6 mm or slightly deeper. Early on I also did some carvings at .33 inches, which was too deep (bad carving). I still wonder if I'd pressed the collet back onto the shaft if the motor would have run again, but I made the mistake of taking it apart to see if the magnet was broken as it was in yours (it wasn't.)
The electronics seem to be working ok for me, the little plastic piece inside the USB port (which holds the flash drive firmly in place) broke off so it won't hold the flash drive in place. It's plastic, and it broke off when the weather outside was in the single digits and probably 30 degrees or less in the garage where I work. It might have been stupid on my part to use it at that temp considering how thin that plastic is.
Received the new motherboard in two days from Oliver, might be a week or better before I get around to installing it since the weather won't warm up until later in the week and I might as well start fresh.
In regards to the border, I guess I've never really paid attention to it other than to see I wasn't running off the board. I'm almost sure that mine duplicates a little of the border and then "centers" directly from the bottom. Something I'll have to look closer at. If yours does a border check singly, do you re-run it with the same file or do you reinstall the carving on the flash drive and start over fully? I guess I'm questioning whether the single border path you describe vs. the preferred path is an internal thing or a file thing.