Just wondering if anyone had seen this. Cutting a piece today that is about 6 x 12, for the first 9 inches or so everything went well. Then I noticed that the bit was going back and forth but wasn't following the pattern. Watching a little longer I realized that the X & Z apparently were working correctly, but the Y had come to a complete stop even though the panel showed it advancing with every stroke. Since it obviously was a failure, I stopped the machine and then tried the Y in the manual mode. The table extends nice and smoothly till it's fully out (most trips), however on the retract mode the machine gets very loud with a sound that can best be described as gears grinding. However, the gear under the table is not grinding but working through the table gears strip as it should. The table moves extremely slow (with loud noise) in the retract mode until it is about half way in and then smoothly retracts the rest of the way. Sometimes the table will go out about 3/4 of the way and start this same slow loud motion, maybe one time in four.
I loosened the side nuts on the rail at the outside end of the table thinking that it might be too tight down there at that end, however that made no difference. I haven't had the opportunity to take the table off yet to look closely underneath, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what my next step should be.
The piece can be salvaged and used since the working was done, just not in the original planned format.....
I have seen the table not move at the proper speed with a dirty limit switch under the table, and I have also seen teeth break off the drive gear on the predessor of the 915. The dirty limit switch on mine prevented it from returning to the home position, it would just sit and whine with a very slow movement, not sure what the other limit switch would do if dirty.
I have had a similar issue myself, when getting ready to start a carve the table growled a bit and did not get to the correct start position.I loosened the side rails, adjusted and the it worked right, I also think one could have the same problem if your board is warped and you have it tightened down to eliminate the warp which would cause some torque to the table.
Here's a new problem, the machine has been working fine. Today I'm carving a 10 x 13 portrait, 1/50 bit on normal, 1 mm on the scan depth, 0.112 on the cut depth. About 60% of the way through, everything was normal. After an 8 hour cut I went out to the garage and the machine had stopped, reset to home position, and the display read like it normally would when a cut is done. However, it still had 40% of the cut to do. Going to give it another go with another flash drive to see if it works the next time around. Anyone ever see this?
This happens to be one that I've used fine (I have two and alternate them) for the past 18 months. I'm thinking that maybe I didn't have it seated fully and it slightly worked loose. But in the back of my mind that doesn't really explain why the machine would return to home unless ipicture in the geecode acts in a similar way - no additional data incoming so reset to start. Have to try again in the morning, it was just getting to the face too, which has been my problem so far in getting a good portrait. If only the nose comes out right this time ....
Why, I wonder, can I not import a gcode file that i just converted in ipicture back into ipicture? I convert, save, then try to import back into ipicture just to see what is actually saved (checking to see if the problem above was because of an incomplete conversion). When I go to where it is stored on the computer, ipicture does not recognize that it exists. Strange.
You also should remember that the only file types I-Picture recognizes are PNG, JPG, GIF and BMP, so you can't import a GEE code file into I-Picture itself. You can of course load a gee code file onto your usb stick which is what I-Picture does anyway.
I just now created a file and saved it to my computer, instead of the stick, I then dragged it to the image file on my stick and it is there.
What I've always done is saved it to "my pictures" in gcode file from ipicture, then drug it onto a stick when I needed to take it to my machine. The gcode is right there staring me in the face, but when I go into ipicture and tell it to open in gcode, it takes me to ipicture and the gcode files don't show up.
New problem, my table seems cockeyed. I've been having problems setting the Z in the center of the piece, and then every time I end up with it cutting into the top right corner of a piece too early and cutting into the left top corner too late. I just figured I had bad wood, so this time I planed the wood piece first to give me a great surface on both sides, it lies flat on the 1013 table, and yet does the same thing when cutting. I solved it by putting a 1/16" shim under the left side of the piece to be cut but this seems strange. It does seem to be working right with the shim however. Wonder if I did something wrong when I took the table off and put it back on.
You might want to go to the gee code files on your stick and right click on a gee code file and then the "opens with" tab, and set to open with microsoft word, that is what my settings have.
Your table may not be warped it is likely the wood. If a board has twist in it, it will not plane out simply because as it goes thru the planer the feed rollers push down on the board. Pushes down on the 1 side as it begins and then the other as it exits, I know I have tried to plane out some twisted ones and it just is not happening. The user manual for mine say as much also.
Think I found the problem, took a level to the table, to the rails that hold the table, and just about everything I could think of. Turns out the rails for the X movement are not parallel with the table, the right side appears about a 1/16" inch closer to the table than the right side is. Turns out that the wood was fine, with the shim under the left side of the wood I manually ran the bit back and forth with the z set right above wood height, it mirrored the surface of the wood perfectly.
Ever hear of anyone adjusting the x rails? I haven't loosened them yet, but it looks like they are in positioned holes instead of being able to be moved much. I'm taking off for 10 days so it's something than can wait till then, and now that I know what the problem is I can always adjust for it. Worst case I guess I could put a shim under the table rail on the left to bring that height up a little.
If you loosen the x guide rails and adjust them to be snug against the table rails (Not overly tight just snug) then the table should be level. If one end of the guide rails is that far from the table rails on one end, that would translate into the table not riding correctly. I have adjusted mine a couple of times, there is enough wiggle room to bring them closer to the table.
Bob, once again you were dead on. I went to take the table off and reset it, and found one of the screws on the table holding rail to be loose - and it was the one on the top right of the table (behind the control panel). So I looked closely at the table, and noticed underneath that the gears on the y motor were barely making contact with the gear strip on the table (maybe 1/16" worth). So I took the table off, wiped down the rails and table grooves, and then put it together with a little more "snug" than last time. When I had everything back, magically the gears were engaged about 1/2 the way up the gear, and the table appears to be back where it belongs. I then cut a piece (7.5 x 13") and apparently that fixed the problem.
Thanks for the suggestion, I was looking at adjusting the wrong thing.
Last Edit: Sept 12, 2014 13:19:51 GMT -8 by Deleted