|
|
Post by robert on Feb 9, 2015 16:17:43 GMT -8
Hello all!
I just need to drill some 3/32" fiberglass boards, typically 3" x12". I would typically be drilling 1/8" holes in a matrix where the holes are 3/8" of an inch apart. The matrix would be something like 7 holes on the X-axis, and 30 holes on the Y axis.
I am new to all of this, but it seems like this is real simple g-code that I need to run. Can I do this with the 1013?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2015 16:52:14 GMT -8
I believe what you want to do is drill a hole every 3/8" in a line, move down, and drill another line of holes. I think this would be fairly easy to accomplish with a 1013, depending on hole size. If you used the standard bits that come with the machine you need to realize that they are conical in shape, so your holes would not have straight perpendicular sides. I would imagine that you could use a 1/4" shank regular drill bit to carry this off, but I'm not 100% sure.
Then remember, you cannot drill all the way through a board on this machine without using something as a sacrificial board underneath - otherwise you'd be drilling into the bed of the machine. Where there is repeated products over and over, I'd probably build a frame (think like a picture frame) that would have slots in it to slide in the fiberglass board and yet could be reuseable. I'd probably consider making this frame tall, then when the bit cuts through the piece it is only seeing air underneath (leave maybe 1/2" of air under the board and cut to a depth of 5/32" with the z set on the top of the board). The results are going to be based on the stiffness of your board, the bit used, etc.
Depending on what photo editing system you use, I'd probably start by laying out the matrix on a white background with black dots and save it as a .png. You'd have to play around to get the size right, but once you work out the details you could make the same cut an infinite amount of times. Once it's laid out you can have ipicture convert your picture into gcode for you.
I won't guarantee this method, but I think it could work.
You can always check with Oliver Machinery to confirm it can be done, remember that they are on Pacific time when you call.
|
|
|
|
Post by robert on Feb 9, 2015 17:19:05 GMT -8
Thank you for your reply! Understood about the sacrificial board.
My concerns at this point are:
Is g-code the same as .gee files?
Do I really need an editing program? It seems like these are just repetitive Z-up, move X/Y, z-down, repeat instructions?
It seems like it would be best to have files optimized to eliminate unnecessary Y-axis movement , right?
Can I just create the necessary files in notepad that are then put on the USB flash drive to run the machine?
Seems like I could do this with the 1/8" end mill bit; but if the instructions are as simple as I described, could it be drill bit or perhaps slightly smaller end mill bit?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2015 18:08:35 GMT -8
1. Yes, they are the same.
2. By editing program I meant some way of coming up with the pattern in the computer. I'm not a computer geek so my methods are probably not the best way of doing things. If you save a layout as a picture file, then ipicture can convert it.
3. Per #2, I know nothing about optimizing. My experience is that the 1013 travels back and forth, and you'd have a lot of y moves while the bit goes back and forth doing nothing in the x. There are people who have more computer experience than I and I believe they can have the bit do exactly what you want - drill one, go right to the next point and drill another, etc. I am not capable of doing this.
4. I use publisher to do the same thing that you are talking about. But you need to convert it into gcode in order to get the 1013 to run it.
|
|
